Climbing gear


Almost all climbers use Italian OneSport shoes today. The One Sport company has been aquired by Millet - boots still looks the same but the brand tag is different.

Get them oversized (1-2 sizes). This is not your average weekend climbing trip and you need something where your toes have space to move freely, or you'll get frostbite by rush delivery.

HotTronics make great heating pads and wires that can be used in your boots on your summit attempt. Michael Strynoe rebuilt the battery packs to give more power at a lower weight using AA Lithium batteries.


Camp makes the ultralight titanium crampons. They are light, but considered not durable. We took our chances with them and they never broke on us.

Bring spares and carry one spare at the summit attempt. Secure them to the boots with steel wire if they keep falling of. There are however many brands of crampons around. Choose your favorites, remember only that ice climbing crampons differ from glacier crampons.


You will need multi-layer clothing for climbing between BC and C3. The temperature changes dramatically when the clouds obscure the sun.

One or two layers of lightweight Gore-Tex over fleece will work well, since the layers will be easy to shed or add. Carry a lightweight down jacket at all times. Use a cap to protect your head in the sun. Wear water-resistant gloves in the icefall and a good pair of down mittens higher up. Carry a spare mitten on your summit attempt.

Use a heavy down suit for the summit. We wear it already from C2 on the summit attempt in order to save weight. If you choose to do that, move early in the morning or you'll boil.

We have used down suites from both Mountain Hardware and North Face and they all worked equally well. Check that the hood will work together with the oxygen mask, covering your face properly. If possible, bring a spare down suit for cold nights in BC. Bring plenty of lightweight socks to change.

Face mask

Use a heat-exchanging, wired face mask for protection against Khumbu- cough. Use the mask already from Gorak Shep. You'll get used to it and be protected right from the start. You should find the mask in stores for cross-country skiing. If you don't, check the gear link list on this web site. The Finnish manufacturer is listed there.


North Face makes a great no-nonsense harness. Remove the stuff that you don't need. Tie about half a meter of line with a carabiner for the fixed ropes. Forget screw carabiners, you want them big and simple at Everest. Make a knot halfway up the rope and hook up a jumar with another carabiner. Secure the jumar in the front to your backpack straps or at chest level when not in use, this being the easiest way to get hold of it. Use a repelling device or just a carabiner if you know the technique.