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Everest oxygen week wrap up: The old vs the new - and the dangers
11:40 a.m. EST Feb 10, 2004
For the past 2 weeks, ExplorersWeb has previewed a new player in the Everest oxygen arena, Summit Oxygen. While on Everest, oxygen is many climbers’ lifeblood. A malfunctioning system or missing bottles can mean a missed summit, or even worse, death. The new system is almost revolutionary as it virtually eliminates the need for oxygen sherpas - we really want it to work. But as oxygen is such a crucial part of survival, we will now turn around and play the Devil's advocate for a while, on both existing systems.
The tried system
While many people have summited successfully on the old system, Poisk, there have also been some folks who haven’t. Some of the problems related to the system are inherent, while others are avoidable. A Poisk setup straight from the factory is relatively reliable. The bottles have been tested and also filled to spec with proper oxygen as well as to the proper pressure.
But there are issues: The masks on a Poisk system work, but ice can build-up, especially in the reservoir bag, sometimes clogging the flow of O2. This can be a permanent clog that can’t be rectified on the mountain, or can just need a few squeezes to get things flowing again. The mask, which does a decent job of keeping the face warm, can sometimes feel restrictive and almost always causes severe visibility issues. It’s difficult to look down at your feet and the mask can make the climber’s goggles fog up as well.
Finally, the Poisk cylinders ratio of weight vs. oxygen make for very heavy loads up the mountain.
The new system
The new system’s creator, Neil Greenwood, cited a void in a reliable and effective oxygen setup on Everest as a reason why he started to develop the system. The new Summit system addressed many of the issues, including reducing the total number of bottles needed - a big break through on Everest. As for security, the cylinders are implanted with a chip; so it’s history is known, and all the servicing is done by Summit Oxygen. This means the bottles are all filled to spec and properly tested, included all of the previously used cylinders. The Pulse Dose Meter, which controls the ‘demand’ system has been tested and also includes a fail-safe should it ever conk out.
But, the system is relatively new to the scene and does have a few issues of its own. In fact, we received an email from a reader soon after our first installment of Everest oxygen week about previous demand based systems that have had reliability problems:
"Actually ‘demand’ systems have been used off and on for more than two decades in the mountains. Of late they had fallen out of favor because of reliability issues. Typically the problem with the ‘nose’ hose as well as ‘demand’ systems is that they tend to clog up and malfunction under severe conditions. Before you go out and buy stock in this company and promote it heavily I would suggest researching the historical problems with these types of systems - hopefully this one has worked out the kinks but skepticism is not always a bad thing. I've tried a "demand" system high up and it can be like pulling a golf ball through a garden hose once the ice inevitably builds up."
The case studies
Well, Dave Pearce was able to summit no problem using the new system last year, but his climbing partner, Rich Cantrill had to turn around because of frostbite. His nose kept clogging up, so he had to keep taking his gloves off to clear his airway. Summit includes a back-up mask with the system, as an alternative if something goes wrong, but Neil even says himself that it is only a backup and the system would then have to be used on a constant flow basis – reducing its efficiency dramatically.
With the summit system, however, Neil’s goal was to create a safe and reliable system. There is a way to bypass the PDM altogether should the need arise and go constant flow. Last year’s RN Everest expedition was able to showcase the prototype of this year’s improved system. This year Summit has several new customers. It is clear that whilst the system is very promising, more case studies are needed.
With that, the jury is still out on the old vs. the new.
What to do and what definitely not to do
The real danger however, lies in "Poisk" systems that have been refilled in India. The bottles can be filled with bad O2’s, not filled all the way, have broken valves and connections - definitely not tested by certified Poisk technicians.
Oxygen is not only used for the summit day. There is always a need to bring spare bottles for a second summit attempt and for rescue. With that, we would bring both systems. A clever mix for tests up to high camps of the new ones and some old for back up.
The only ones we would stay away from - are the ones "made in India."
Comparison
Summit:
3L bottle – 615 USD, 3345g, 22.6 hrs of use on 2L of flow (20 breaths per minute)
Regulator & Dosage Regulator – 1680 USD (210g + 200g) = 410g
Total weight: 3755g
Total cost for 1 setup: 2295 USD
Refill from Summit 100 USD
Poisk:
3L bottle: 310 USD, 2600g, 6 hrs of use on 2L of flow
Regulator: 300 USD, 350g
Total weight: 2950g + mask
Total cost for 1 setup: 660 USD
Refill from Poisk: 120 USD
Summit: 22.6 hrs of O2 = cost of 2295 USD and weight of 3.8kg
Poisk: 24 hrs of O2 = 1540 USD and weight of 10.8kg (1 regulator and 4 bottles)
All information in comparison from respective company’s websites.
ExplorersWeb archive image of a Poisk oxygen mask after being used by a frostbitten climber during the infamous 1996 Everest season.
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