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Happy birthday Petrarch: The Grandfather of Alpinism
Jul 22, 2004 15: 35 EST
“Today I made the ascent of the highest mountain in this region, which is not improperly called Ventosum (Latin for windy). My only motive was the wish to see what so great an elevation had to offer.”
Anyone could have said that. After all, this is the best of reasons to climb a mountain, isn’t it? The funny thing is those words were uttered nearly 700 years ago by Francesco Petrarca.
This letter was sent to Dionisio da Borgo by Francesco, in “the year of the Lord” of 1336. “I have had the expedition in mind for many years; for, as you know, I have lived in this region from infancy, having been cast here by that fate which determines the affairs of men. Consequently the mountain, which is visible from a great distance, was ever before my eyes, and I conceived the plan of some time doing what I have at last accomplished today. “
Climbing partners
Petrarca shows that mountain issues have not changed all too much. “When I came to look about for a companion I found, strangely enough, that hardly one among my friends seemed suitable, so rarely do we meet with just the right combination of personal tastes and characteristics, even among those who are dearest to us. (…) Such defects, however grave, could be borne with at home and friendship accepts any burden; but it is quite otherwise on a journey, where every weakness becomes much more serious.”
The solution was there, anyway: “would you believe it? - I finally turned homeward for aid, and proposed the ascent to my only brother, who is younger than I, and with whom you are well acquainted. He was delighted and gratified beyond measure by the thought of holding the place of a friend as well as of a brother.” So have thought the Hubers, the Messners, the Iñurrategis, the Benegas’, and so many other climbing brothers, who work amazingly well as a team.
The climb
“At the time fixed we left the house, and by evening reached Malaucene, which lies at the foot of the mountain, to the north. Having rested there a day, we finally made the ascent this morning, with no companions except two servants; and a most difficult task it was. The mountain is a very steep and almost inaccessible mass of stony soil. But, as the poet has well said, "Remorseless toil conquers all." It was a long day, the air fine. We enjoyed the advantages of vigor of mind and strength and agility of body. We found an old shepherd in one of the mountain dales, who tried, at great length, to dissuade us from the ascent, saying that some fifty years before he had, in the same ardor of youth, reached the summit, but had gotten for his pains nothing except fatigue and regret, and clothes and body torn by the rocks and briars. No one, so far as he or his companions knew, had ever tried the ascent before or after him. But his counsels increased rather than diminished our desire to proceed, since youth is suspicious of warnings.”
“While my brother chose a direct path straight up the ridge, I weakly took an easier one which really descended. When I was called back, and the right road was shown me, I replied that I hoped to find a better way round on the other side, and that I did not mind going farther if the path were only less steep. This was just an excuse for my laziness; and when the others had already reached a considerable height I was still wandering in the valleys. I had failed to find an easier path, and had only increased the distance and difficulty of the ascent. At last I became disgusted with the intricate way I had chosen, and resolved to ascend without more ado. When I reached my brother, who, while waiting for me, had had ample opportunity for rest, I was tired and irritated (…) Suffice it to say that, much to my vexation and my brother's amusement, I made this same mistake three times or more during a few hours.”
Over the clouds and back to Earth
Finally they reached “One peak of the mountain, the highest of all. On its top is a little level place, and here we could at last rest our tired bodies. At first, owing to the unaccustomed quality of the air and the effect of the great sweep of view spread out before me, I stood like one dazed. I beheld the clouds under our feet.”
Our climbing philosopher explains how he had at hand an issue of St. Agustin ‘Confessions’, one of the books that had a stronger influence in his thought, and opening randomly, he read: "And men go about to wonder at the heights of the mountains, and the mighty waves of the sea, and the wide sweep of rivers, and the circuit of the ocean, and the revolution of the stars, but themselves they consider not." Petrarca never attempted another mountain in his life. Nevertheless, he had become perhaps, the ‘father of alpinism’, centuries before French aristocrats discovered the pleasure of climbing mountains as a sport.
What about the mountain?
The Mons Ventosum is still there, by the way. Its current name is Mont Ventoux (windy in French). It is the highest point of Provence, East-Shouthern France, measuring 1912 meters. Located near Carpentras, It stands out from the other mountains and encounters important climatic effects: major variations of temperature that go from heat waves to -30°C. During the summer, scorchers can be followed by snowstorms. The wind can reach 250 km/h, coming from all directions.
Its summits offer one of the vastest views of France: from the Italian frontier, to the blue Mediterranean, to the Rhone Alps and, on clear days, the summits of the Mont Blanc Massif. It is a remarkable natural site with huge varieties of vegetal and animal species. Is has been classified "Réserve de Biosphère" by the U.N.E.S.C.O
The climb to its north side, from Malaucène, is 21km long and 1535m of difference in height. A tarmac road of 7,3% average inclination (10% In some sections) have made of the Mont Ventoux one of the most famous ‘passes climbs’ for cyclists.
Francesco Petrarca, philosopher, poet and traveller, was born on the 20 of July, 1304 in Arezzo. In 1312 he moved along with his family to the Carpentras, near Avignon, where the Papal See was during those years. He is considered one of the first Humanists, precursor of the Rennaisance era and, along with Dante Alighieri and Giovanni Boccacio, a classic of the ‘Trecento’ literature.
Exweb Translation from James Harvey Robinson, ed. en vertaald. Francesco Petrarca: The First Modern Scholar and Man of Letters (New York: G.P. Putnam, 1898)
Top Picture, painting of Francesco Petrarch. Below, Mont Ventoux nowadays courtesy of www.taccuinistorici.it
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2004
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