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Denis Urubko: A question of principles
Feb 25, 2005 10: 38 EST
Previously published Feb 23, 2005 15: 41 EST
Kazakh Denis Urubko is considered one of the top climbers today. Last year, along with Simone Moro, he opened a new route on the North Face of Baruntse, and made a night summit on Annapurna in bad weather conditions (Simone had to turn around due to health problems).
Denis has done many summits, but also sacrificed summits to help climbers in trouble, some of whom he had never met before. He doesn’t have all the 8000ers he could have, but instead has earned unanimous respect from the climbing community.
As the new season gets underway, we had a chat with Denis about his future plans, his opinion on the latest climbing events and controversies, and where to find Shambala...
ExWeb What are your future plans? Are you getting ready for a new expedition this spring?
Denis: Future plans depend, as usual, on our daily life issues and circumstances: Health, money, job… This is a big problem everywhere. Just take a look at Nepal: Its political situation makes it impossible to fix medium-term. I have been in Kathmandu during civil disorders and I didn’t like it. In addition, I am trying to support some young, local climbers in my hometown and help them through their first climbing experience at high altitude this summer. Currently, I am president of the Mountaineering and Rock Climbing Federation of Almaty, so it is my duty also. We have some plans for Pamir, Tien-Shan...and maybe Himalaya next year.
ExWeb Do you plan to climb with Simone again? What about the Everest-Lhotse traverse?
Denis: Of course! I hope to launch new attempts on 8000ers with my friend Simone. I trust him completely as a partner, which is something so difficult to find in this strange life of ours… He is also a real ‘beast’ – just kidding. I consider him a very smart leader and I honestly enjoy expeditions with him. For me, Simone is the best example of a professional sportsman.
About Everest-Lhotse? Well, it is still a dream… However, even without that traverse, there is plenty of beautiful mountains in the world!
ExWeb What about the National Kazakhstan team? What is your role in it?
Denis: I help in many of the National team’s projects. I have worked hard for it, and I am looking forward to continue my career as a member of the Kazakhstan Mountaineering team.
ExWeb Kangchenjunga is celebrating the 50th anniversary of its first climb. What can you say about that mountain, that you know well?
Denis: Wow, what can I say! Buddhists believe that there is Shambala* on Kangchenjunga. It is a fantastic mountain - it seems to cover the world around in a shadow of power. In the area where it rises, I felt as if I were in a wild planet many centuries ago. You trek through jungles, feel the solitude among the peaks, you feel thankful to be there surrounded by mountains and among friends. It’s like living under the rules of life for nothing.
ExWeb You have undone summits - do you plan on returning to those mountains, or do you prefer to start new projects on different mountains?
Denis: Sure, I would like to come back to those places. For example, I left my ice axes at 7800m on K2’s North Side. I dream on returning there, retrieving the tools and take them all the way to the top. But time goes by, other options show up, and I take them. Sometimes we need to delay our dreams until we find a good chance for them.
ExWeb What do you think of Lafaille's controversy on his Shisha Pangma winter climb? Is he right, or did Simone Moro and Piotr Morawski make the first 'real' winter climb?
Denis: Jean-Christophe performed a great climb, his was a really important sporting achievement. Of course, I respect it very much, because I understand it well. However, sport needs to stick to rules. All among the mountaineering community agree that winter starts on December, 21. I am not the one to oppose to the opinion of so many experienced climbers. Pitrek (Piotr) and Simone summited in winter without any doubt. In their case, nobody can discuss that fact.
ExWeb You know what it takes to give up your summit bid because someone is in trouble. Every year there are people missing in mountains with many other teams around. For example, the three climbers missing on K2 last summer. What is your point of view on the subject? Do people help each other up in the mountains, or not?
Denis: My opinion is crystal clear on the subject: Life is the first and greatest value; we need to keep it, and help the rest to keep alive. Of course, everybody is free to choose his own way, and take risks in life. From that point of view, we need to assume that nobody may be able to help you at 8000 meters. My life is mine, and I will decide what to do, even if I can die. For that reason, I have no right to ask anybody to help me."
"However, I believe in the sense of humanity, and try to follow my principles also when I am high on a mountain. For that reason, I will try to help anyone in danger on high mountain slopes."
*Shambala, according to Buddhist philosophy, is a sacred place beyond the third dimension and the limits of the physical existence.
The last 8000er summited by Denis was Annapurna, on May 30, 2004. Some days before, he opened a new route along with Simone Moro on the highly demanding North Wall of Baruntse. The duo finished their climb on the summit of the Khali Himal (Baruntse North point), while the main summit remained untouched due to strong wind.
Denis attempted K2 in winter 2003, through the North Side, but renounced to a summit bid when one of his younger teammates became ill in the last camp. Another renounce was that of the Lhotse-Everest traverse in 2001: Partner Simone Moro sacrificed his Lhotse bid to find and save Briton Tom Moores, while Denis helped some Polish climbers. Denis summited Lhotse the next morning, but renounced to complete the traverse without his mate, Simone.
Also in 2003, Denis and Simone joined an all-star international team with whom Denis summited Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak back to back. It was then when Denis met Jean Christophe Lafaille. While descending from Broad Peak, Lafaille experienced serious breathing problems. Ed Viesturs and Denis Urubko did a nighttime rescue and brought Lafaille safely down the mountain.
Despite his recurrent choice to rescue fellow climbers instead of going for the summit, Denis Urubko has summited nine 8000ers, as well as an unaccounted number of peaks in Central Asia and the former Soviet Union.
Top image of Denis in Annapurna BC last year, bottom image on the summit of Lenin peak in Winter, courtesy of Denis Urubko
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