'The hell with your mountains'
15:19 p.m. EDT May 15, 2003
Slava the hunter from the Russian Alpindustria team has become a bit depressed. He’s not a mountaineer by trade, but thought he’d give it a try, and has already slept at 7500m. The expedition leader reports in that it's like an, "experiment for him and us."
The team’s recent plan to set camp at 8300m was foiled by bad weather and the three members who slept up at Camp II, 7500m, held the tent down with their bodies all night long. They were the only ones up there, everyone else was down!
Alexander Abramov reports:
"14 May. Slava Pashkov is depressed: "The hell with your mountains! I have got a lot of impression." Slava has never devoted to mountain climbing before. It is like experiment for him and us. He paid for the guide and porter. During the expedition Slava was able to have night in the camp II, 7500m. If Slava ascends to the summit it will cause the sensation in the mountaineering.
Without doubt he has a good chance to do it. Tzarev, Pushkarev and three sherpas are in the ABC now. They have not been successful installing the camp at 8300m because of the strong wind. Our plans are spoiled all the time. At the height of 7500m Elagin, Gudjabidze and Kaimachnikov installed the tent at about one hour and a half yesterday.
They did not sleep and held the tent with the help of their bodies all night. The camp at 7500m was called "The dead town" because there was nobody except them. Nobody has gone to the top today. The peak is ice-coated and the ropes have not been changed for a long time.
Probably the expedition from China will be able to trace the ropes. I should lead the first group of climbers to the summit. In spite of the weather all the expeditions are planning the ascension on the 17th, 18th, 19th, 20th of May. The tents are torn in the ABC and there is the full moon in the sky. It is the end of the message, Bye"
This expedition is part of a new project called the, "Russian Adventure Team." Their goal is to climb the seven summits of the seven continents - The first peak climbed was Mt. Elbrus this past January 8th and then Kilimanjaro. After Everest, they will head to Carstensz Pyramid.
Image courtesy of Mountain.ru
Alexander's dispatch translated and forwarded by our friends as Mountain.ru