THEY MADE IT!!! EVEREST CENTRAL NORTH FACE SUMMIT!
May 30, 2004 00: 37 EST
30 May, 2004 at 10-00 Pavel Shabaline, Iljas Tukhvatullin and Andrew Mariev summited Everest via the new route - the center of the North Wall!
Congratulations!
The expedition isn't over - two groups are on their way to the top.
29 May, 2004 18-06 Victor Kozlov has just called and has informed the details:
May, 27 group Shabaline-Tukhvatullin-Mariev has left camp on 8300 and went upwards with the tent, ropes, gas and meal. Weight of backpacks was significant for such altitude. They ascended to 8600 m and reached there the extremely difficult step of "6-grade" rocks. They have tried to climb it, but, fixed 0,5 rope, were compelled to stop and spent the night there. Work at such altitude is very hard. Guys have set Camp 5 (8600 м) - the small tent, there are no sleeping bags, only the stove and a little meal. Guys spent the night in down suits. Today they have continued the work on rocks. It was possible to fix a rope more. Today they spend the night in the same place, on 8600!!! Guys have not enough oxygen, they have taken only 2 cylinders per person, they couldn't take more to carry up , anybody did not expect for such situation. Therefore they save oxygen, use it extremely seldom and work on the minimal charge when use. Tomorrow they will try to pass more to the left - this way seems to be easier.. .. They will reach the summit, or should go downwards - the fourth day at 8600 t is impossible.
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