Summit push nearing on Shish
13:24 p.m. EST Jan 8, 2004
Simone just sent in the latest word from Shisha Pangma. He and two others made the push up to Camp I today and plan to move up higher tomorrow. They are still concerned about placing a camp high up past 7000m – hopefully they’ll find a space big enough to dig in, otherwise it’ll be an uncomfortable bivy. If all goes well, the crew will make a summit push by Sunday.
“Today I make my report by satellite phone - we reached directly Camp 1. We were very quick and this means that we are well acclimatized. Up there we are 3, Piotre, Darek, and me. Tomorrow all of us will bring up 100 meter of line and we will climb over 7000 meters.
We continue hoping that we can find a small place for our tents over 7200 meters and to avoid a bivi in a crevasse at 6700 meters. If we are able to fixing the ropes according to plans, than we will try summit on Sunday. Weather forecast is ok and wind will be not too strong. Next week wind will be very strong (full jet stream), about 100 km/h with maximal points of 150 km/h….”
Ciao till tomorrow
Simone Moro, 36, has summited Mount Everest, Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, Lhotse. This past summer, he also opened a new partial route on the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat, though he did not reach the summit. In 1996, Simone attained the N. Summit of Shisha Pangma. He is now attempting to make the first successful winter ascent of the peak, climbing via the South Face.
The expedition will climb Shisha Pangma’s South Face without the use of Sherpa support or supplementary oxygen. Originally, Krzysztof Wielicki was planning to be a part of the expedition, but bowed out recently due to family matters.
On the expedition is Italian climber Simone Moro, Pierre Bergeron and Yvon Latreille, both from Quebec, Canada, and Polish climbers Piotr Morawski, Jacek Jawien and Darek Zaluski are also on the expedition. Jas Szulc (POL) will accompany the team the base camp manager.
Image of Simone courtesy of Simonemoro.com