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Slovenian new line on Nangpai Gosum 1 SE
Nov 18, 2004 09: 37 EST
Urban Golob was the expedition leader of a recent successful new line in Himalaya. With all 8000ers gone, the 7000ers are next to chart up. Urban's team snatched the 7000er Nangpai Gosum SE line in Himalaya and here's Urban's debrief:
"Mid October a Slovenian expedition made a new route on Nangpai Gosum 1/Pasang Lhamu Peak (7351m) from SE (Nepal side) and a first ascent of Dazampa Tse (6295 m).
The Slovenian team (Urban Azman, Tadej Golob, Uros Samec, Samo Krmelj, Rok Blagus, Doctor Zare Guzej and myself - Urban Golob, expedition leader) set up Base camp near the Sumna glacier, one hour from the traditional yak caravan route from Tibe to Namche Bazar over Nangpai La.
This was the same setting the American team chose for Base Camp in 2002, when attempting the SE side of the mountain. The Americans however found themselves in crossfire during acclimatization near Nangpai La and went home without a real attempt on the mountain.
We established Advanced Base Camp (5555 m) at the foot of the SE face on October 5th, only two days after reaching Base camp.
There were no easier peaks in our immediate neighborhood suitable for acclimatization, so Uros Samec, Samo Krmelj and Rok Blagus acclimatized twice on the SE face in bad weather.
On the first acclimatization they climbed to 6100 m, bivouacked under cornice and made rappel belays, for easier descent.
Then a period of bad weather arrived, when I caught pneumonia and had to go home. But October 17, the team climbed to 6400 meters and returned to BC the next day on their second acclimatization trip.
October 22, the climbers went for a summit push from Base Camp. The next day they started out from ABC at 1 am. They took one long day to climb to the S ridge (6600 m), where they rested for one day, while scouting a route on the complicated ridge.
October 24, the expedition left their tent at 2 am and reached the summit at 9 am in high winds and very low temperatures.
They began their descent almost immediately, reaching the tent and then continuing their way down to ABC. They reached the foot of the SE face in the evening, making 19 rappels from the ridge. They named their ascent the Slovenian route VI, 5 M, 1550 meters.
Meanwhile, on October 18 the second team: Tadej Golob and Urban Azman climbed the SW face of Dzasampa Tse (6295 m), south of Nangpai Gosum 1. They started from South Col at 6 am and reached the top after almost 7 hours of mostly unroped climbing on slopes of 55-65 degrees and one mixed pitch of 40 meters. They named the first ascent route Mali princ (the little Prince) and rated it TD+, 5 M, 600 m.
Until our expedition there were only two ascents of this the highest peak of the Nangpai Gosum group. The first ascent was made by a Japanese expedition in 1986 on the NW ridge starting from Tibet. In 1996 an international expedition made the integral NW ridge starting the climb on Nangpai La.
Urban Golob"
Published Nov 17, edited November 18: The team just made rappel belays, they didn't fix rope. And they didn't put a tent at 6100 ("we did not have it with us"), instead they bivouacked under cornice.
Image of the new line on Nagpai Gosum 1, courtesy of the team.
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