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Simone Moro - Another view
16:54 p.m. EDT Oct 13, 2003
Last week, Denis Urubko shared his thoughts on climbing, training and the “Soviet” method being the key to many successful ascents. Today, Denis’s friend and climbing partner Simone Moro weighs in with his views and observations on many of the same questions. It’s interesting to see where the two climbers agree… and where their climbing philosophies part ways.

Denis believes the Soviet method of climbing and training has been the key to many of the Kazakhs successful ascents. Simone thinks their success has more to do with “the team spirit where everybody sacrifices something of himself for the final result” rather than their specific training regimen. But Simone also finds that “this spirit is changing … In the last expedition I saw that this spirit is finishing. Too many rigid military systems kill the personality, interpretations and motivation….” The Russians are coached in a specific style of alpinism and Simone thinks this can limit climbers who are not free to choose their type of climbing, alpinism. He said, “Anatoli Boukreev became the “King of Himalaya” and idol of many climbers only when he went out of the standard URSS mentality….”

Simone himself prefers light, speed ascents, and has his sight set on some winter ascents in the future. “50% of 8000 meter peaks are unclimbed in winter and there are thousands of winter climbs that are waiting the first… This will be an important part of my alpinism and to realize such kind of climbs you must be ready to withstand the cold, extra difficulties, failure and I think I’m ready.”

Check out the full interview on the mountain.ru Web site.

Image courtesy of mountain.ru.


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