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Simone: Future favorites enroute to Shisha
image story



Dec 7, 2004 09: 10 EST

Simone Moro is enjoying his acclimatization hike up the Khumbu valley, checking out some of the surrounding peaks. Many could provide nice climbing targets in the future, like the impressive wall shown in the picture (sent by Simone today).

Nothin' but blue skies

“Sun is shining and the sky is blue on our fourth day of trekking. Our camera’s never stop working in such great views…even though I’ve been in this valley over 20 times!

2 favorites

Yesterday we spent our second day in Namche making an excursion to Thame and back. We went there to check out some mountains we could choose as future climbing projects; two of them have been chosen as favorites for now.

Video coming up!

Currently we are in Deboche at the famous “Ama Dablam Garden Lodge” (3750 m.) Tomorrow we will trek to Dingboche (4410 m.) where we will remain for two days in order to achieve a better acclimatization. Follow us and very soon we will start sending some video too!”

Up until now only 7 out of all 14 eight-thousanders have been winter climbed, all located, partially at least, in Nepal. All first winter accents were made by Polish climbers, from Everest in 1980 to Lhotse in 1988 - the last time someone set foot on a virgin summit higher than 8000m during the winter.

Now, the Polish are back - with an Italian! Simone Moro, Piotr Morawski, Jacek Jawien, Dariusz Zaluski and Jan Szulc will repeat their winter attempt of last year.

Simone Moro, 37, is the driving force behind this current expedition. He has earlier summited Mount Everest, Broad Peak, Cho Oyu and Lhotse. In the summer of 2003, he climbed on Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak and K2 with Denis and an all/star team. He opened a new partial route on the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat, though he did not reach the summit.

This past summer, Simone and Denis, along with Camos, reached the Kali Himal (Black Summit) of Baruntse, also known as the North Summit at 7014m via a new route up the North Face. After this acclimatization climb, they moved to Annapurna’s North Face. Simone had to turn back for health reasons, but Denis made the summit.

In 1996, Simone reached the N. Summit of Shisha Pangma. He is now attempting to make the first successful winter ascent of the peak, climbing via the South Face. Piotr Morawski, one of Simone’s partners, took part in the 2003 K2 winter expedition, led by Polish Krzysztof Wielicki.

Image courtesy Simone Moro.

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