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Silvio Mondinelli for fall Shisha attempt
image story



Feb 16, 2005 18: 38 EST
Silvio ‘Gnaro’ Mondinelli's busy climbing schedule has kept the Italian climber in many of our recent stories. This spring, he’ll attempt Annapurna. He’ll then ‘spend the summer’ climbing Nanga Parbat and, well, once you start it’s hard to stop: Autumn will be devoted to Shisha Pangma. ‘Gnaro’ has previously reached Shisha’s Central Summit, but not the main one.

A chat with Simone Moro

Last week, Silvio and Simone Moro discussed the possibility of repeating the Yugoslavian route Moro and the Polish team climbed this winter. Simone told Silvio that their route, through the South side of Shisha, leads straight to the Main summit. The normal route, from the North side, requires traversing from the Central summit along a wind-exposed ridge to the main point.

After-summit plans

But after giving it some thought, Mondinelli has chosen to join an Italian expedition on the classic route. Afterwards, he might decide to perhaps climb another route - on the south face.

The 2005 Italian Shisha expedition is led by Luca Succi, and includes Silvio Mondinelli, Mario Merelli, Graziano Masciaga, Marco Confortola, Claudio Mandrini, extreme snowboarder Emilio Previtali, and Luca’s wife Cristina Piolini. Recently, Spanish Edurne Pasaban joined the team as well.

Luca Succi, the expedition leader, told ExplorersWeb that if they summit Shisha Pangma in a shorter time than expected and feel strong enough, they will consider moving to Cho Oyu for an alpine style ascent. Sans Mondinelli who already summited the peak earlier.

Silvio Mondinelli was born in Gardone (Italy) in 1958. Since beginning climbing at 18 years old, he has done major climbs all over the world, including nine 8000ers: Manaslu, Cho Oyu, Everest, GI, GII, Dhaulagiri, Makalu, Kangchenjunga and K2, plus Shisha Pangma’s central summit, and a controversial climb on Lhotse.

Edurne Pasabán (30) was born in Tolosa (Basque Country, Spain). Her K2 summit made her the only living female who has summited K2. She has also climbed more 8000+ peaks than any other living female. Edurne has bagged Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, GI, GII and K2 in just a few years.

Mario Merelli has summited Everest, Makalu, Kangchenjunga and Shisha's central summit.

Image of Silvio Mondinelli, courtesy of Gnaromondinelli.it
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