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Shisha Winter Climb: URSS championship and hiking 5000+ in the sun
Dec 10, 2004 15: 13 EST
The Shisha winter guys are hiking around Khumbu before they begin their chilly winter climb of Shisha Pangma December 21.
Unclimbed Kang Lemo, se picture
The weather is still nice and warm. In Deboche Simone, Camos and Max went to Chuchhkung to get lunch and take pictures of Island Peak and an unnamed and unclimbed peak in that area - locally named Kang Lemo (6202m). "We are sending you the photo of the south side of that mountain. Could be interesting to climb the west face..." writes the guys. Their 3 other polish friends hiked to 5000 meters on a hill above Dingboche.
5600-5700 meters
Next it was off to Lobuche and some great views of Nuptse, Pumori, Lingtrena and Khumbutse, hiking to 5600-5700 meters on the ridge of Lobuche Peak and than a traverse to Khala Pattar. "We took many photos and some of them we are sending herewith."
Khali Himal climb won the URSS championship
That's when some really good news arrived! Writes Simone: "Today Tassi Bruno "Camos" and myself received very good news... Our climb of 4th may 2004 on Khali Himal 7066 m through a new route on the north-west face won the URSS championship in the category Hi-Altitude Technical. Denis Urubko had been our third partner on that climb and he gave us the news... We are really very happy and will have a great party in Kathmandu!
Ciao from Simone and all the team"
Images:
1. Camos and Max, left to right
2. Everest trekking team
3. Simone and Nuptse
4. Kang Lemo, unclimbed 6202m
Up until now only 7 out of all 14 eight-thousanders have been winter climbed, all located, partially at least, in Nepal. All first winter accents were made by Polish climbers, from Everest in 1980 to Lhotse in 1988 - the last time someone set foot on a virgin summit higher than 8000m during the winter.
Now, the Polish are back - with an Italian! Simone Moro, Piotr Morawski, Jacek Jawien, Dariusz Zaluski and Jan Szulc will repeat their winter attempt of last year.
Simone Moro, 37, is the driving force behind this current expedition. He has earlier summited Mount Everest, Broad Peak, Cho Oyu and Lhotse. In the summer of 2003, he climbed on Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak and K2 with Denis and an all/star team. He opened a new partial route on the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat, though he did not reach the summit.
This past summer, Simone and Denis, along with Camos, reached the Kali Himal (Black Summit) of Baruntse, also known as the North Summit at 7014m via a new route up the North Face. After this acclimatization climb, they moved to Annapurna’s North Face. Simone had to turn back for health reasons, but Denis made the summit.
In 1996, Simone reached the N. Summit of Shisha Pangma. He is now attempting to make the first successful winter ascent of the peak, climbing via the South Face. Piotr Morawski, one of Simone’s partners, took part in the 2003 K2 winter expedition, led by Polish Krzysztof Wielicki.
Images courtesy Simone Moro.
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