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Shisha Winter climb: The entire mountain is screaming
image story



Jan 12, 2005 15: 53 EST
The wind is growing even stronger. The climbers set off for the col yesterday, trying to disregard the conditions they would encounter higher up.

They walked straight into hell. They managed to get to Camp I and this is their latest:

The entire mountain is loud

“The wind rattled our tent all night and it was hard to sleep. The entire mountain was very loud, a tell tale of the hell going on up there.

In the morning we waited for the sun to come up and then we crawled out of our sleeping bags. The sky was clear, but the cold wind was stopping us, especially when we reached the plateau.

Now we are sitting in our tent in Camp 1, getting ready for tomorrow: It is going to be a very important and also exhausting day. We wish the wind let us through the col…”

Up until now only 7 out of all 14 eight-thousanders have been winter climbed, all located, partially at least, in Nepal. All first winter accents were made by Polish climbers in Calendar winter, from Everest in 1980 to Lhotse in 1988 - the last time someone set foot on a virgin summit higher than 8000m during the winter.

Now, the Polish are back - with an Italian! Simone Moro, Piotr Morawski, Jacek Jawien, Dariusz Zaluski and Jan Szulc will repeat their winter attempt of last year.

Simone Moro, 37, is the driving force behind this current expedition. He has earlier summited Mount Everest, Broad Peak, Cho Oyu and Lhotse. In the summer of 2003, he climbed on Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak and K2 with Denis and an all/star team. He opened a new partial route on the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat, though he did not reach the summit.

This past summer, Simone and Denis, along with Camos, reached the Kali Himal (Black Summit) of Baruntse, also known as the North Summit at 7014m via a new route up the North Face. That climb recently won the URSS championship in the category Hi-Altitude Technical.

In 1996, Simone reached the N. Summit of Shisha Pangma. He is now attempting to make the first successful classic winter ascent of the peak, climbing via the South Face. Piotr Morawski, one of Simone’s partners, took part in the 2003 K2 winter expedition, led by Polish Krzysztof Wielicki.

Image courtesy of Simone Moro.

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