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Shisha Winter: SUMMIT PUSH
Jan 13, 2005 10: 01 EST
Up until now only 7 out of all 14 eight-thousanders have been winter climbed, all located, partially at least, in Nepal.
Tomorrow we could see number 8 go down - for the first time in 17 years. And for the first time ever - the expedition reports and images are live from high camps!
Piotr and Simon have reached the col on Shisha Pangma and pitched Camp 2 on 7400 meters:
Speeding up to the Col
"This morning we packed tent, sleeping bags and food and sped off to the Col. The load was heavy but we wanted C2 to be comfortable. We began to fix rope at 7300 meters and climbed very fast hoping to reach the col.
Most of today's climbing was on the rocky part, not difficult, but dangerous (moving stones and not solid rock). "
Reached the ridge in frigid shadow
"When we finally reached the Col it was already in shadow, and extremely cold. As we were setting up the tent we noticed that a part of the ridge is somewhat protected from this terrible, strong and freezing wind.
The more part of the ridge is unprotected of course, but a small section seems calm and that's our chance... So we decided to try summit tomorrow! Cross fingers! And follow us!"
Up until now only 7 out of all 14 eight-thousanders have been winter climbed, all located, partially at least, in Nepal. All first winter accents were made by Polish climbers in Calendar winter, from Everest in 1980 to Lhotse in 1988 - the last time someone set foot on a virgin summit higher than 8000m during the winter.
Now, the Polish are back - with an Italian! Simone Moro, Piotr Morawski, Jacek Jawien, Dariusz Zaluski and Jan Szulc will repeat their winter attempt of last year.
Simone Moro, 37, is the driving force behind this current expedition. He has earlier summited Mount Everest, Broad Peak, Cho Oyu and Lhotse. In the summer of 2003, he climbed on Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak and K2 with Denis and an all/star team. He opened a new partial route on the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat, though he did not reach the summit.
This past summer, Simone and Denis, along with Camos, reached the Kali Himal (Black Summit) of Baruntse, also known as the North Summit at 7014m via a new route up the North Face. That climb recently won the URSS championship in the category Hi-Altitude Technical.
After this acclimatization climb, they moved to Annapurna’s North Face. Simone had to turn back for health reasons, but Denis made the summit.
In 1996, Simone reached the N. Summit of Shisha Pangma. He is now attempting to make the first successful classic winter ascent of the peak, climbing via the South Face. Piotr Morawski, one of Simone’s partners, took part in the 2003 K2 winter expedition, led by Polish Krzysztof Wielicki.
Live image over Contact 3.0 technology of Simone on the ridge and Simone transmitting in high camp, courtesy Simone Moro, photo: Piotr Morawski.
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