Shisha Winter Guys: "Our line..."|
Dec 14, 2004 10: 59 EST
The guys have decided to be Gentlemen when it comes to Lafaille: "We would like to congratulate JC Lafaille for the good climb and the success. Really!"
But - there are reservations. Here's their latest, with Simone at the keyboard:
Hooking up with Szulc
"Our trek back to Kathmandu began today. Presently we are in Deboche at 3700 meters and tomorrow some of us will go to Lukla, whilst myself and a couple of the the others will spend another 2 days going down. Tomorrow we will meet with Jan Szulc who arrived Nepal 1 week later than us and should be in Namche now.
A new line?
Today we also browsed the internet to check how the news on JC Lafaille's Shisha climb has been presented. With a huge surprise and a big laugh we saw the photo of the "new line" of JC, because we discovered that 50% of that route is our route of last winter (green line)!
(Lafailles route is marked yellow. Ed note.)
We have photos and film of that line we made last December and January (till the point where the route crosses number 5 and 6). We didn't consider that part as new because the aim of the Spanish route we climbed was to follow the big coloir from the base of the wall to the summit.
A natural variation - with pieces of fixed rope still in place
Our line had been simply a natural variant in response to the ice and weather conditions. Last year we sent lots of pictures to my own homepage and the most important world web sites: So our line and story should be well known. JC must even have found some pieces of fixed rope still left there, if the snow was not too deep.
Enough of wars
In any case we would like to congratulate JC Lafaille to the good climb and the success. Really! We also would like to congratulate him to the tactics...
We really don't want to make any discussion and polemics. There's already enough wars and problems in the world, and we believe that it would be stupid to add to that in the mountains.
Simone, Darek, Piotr"
Up until now only 7 out of all 14 eight-thousanders have been winter climbed, all located, partially at least, in Nepal. All first winter accents were made by Polish climbers in Calendar winter, from Everest in 1980 to Lhotse in 1988 - the last time someone set foot on a virgin summit higher than 8000m during the winter.
Now, the Polish are back - with an Italian! Simone Moro, Piotr Morawski, Jacek Jawien, Dariusz Zaluski and Jan Szulc will repeat their winter attempt of last year.
Simone Moro, 37, is the driving force behind this current expedition. He has earlier summited Mount Everest, Broad Peak, Cho Oyu and Lhotse. In the summer of 2003, he climbed on Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak and K2 with Denis and an all/star team. He opened a new partial route on the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat, though he did not reach the summit.
This past summer, Simone and Denis, along with Camos, reached the Kali Himal (Black Summit) of Baruntse, also known as the North Summit at 7014m via a new route up the North Face. That climb recently won the URSS championship in the category Hi-Altitude Technical.
After this acclimatization climb, they moved to Annapurna’s North Face. Simone had to turn back for health reasons, but Denis made the summit.
In 1996, Simone reached the N. Summit of Shisha Pangma. He is now attempting to make the first successful classic winter ascent of the peak, climbing via the South Face. Piotr Morawski, one of Simone’s partners, took part in the 2003 K2 winter expedition, led by Polish Krzysztof Wielicki.
Images courtesy Simone Moro.