Shisha Pangma winter: Cima, cima, cima!!! Summit!|
Jan 14, 2005 10: 49 EST
The triumphant news came over the phone from Italy early morning EST (04.00 am), and only two hours later the summit pictures arrived, straight from Shisha high camp at 7400 meters - relayed to ExWeb by Piotr's Polish webmaster. The joy is sky high in all camps!
Simone Moro and Piotr Morawski summited at 1.15 pm (local) after a fast 5 hour climb in very strong winds. They followed the Yugoslavian route on the south face of Shisha Pangma.
Long shot that paid off
Only yesterday they fixed ropes to the col, pitched Camp II in high winds, and already then decided for a summit push today when they noticed that part of the upper route was sheltered. It was a long shot that paid off.
Only 6 remain
This is first winter ascent on Shisha Pangma in history. Now only six 8000 meters peaks are awaiting their first winter ascents...
Check in on both climbers websites Saturday for a full story.
Up until now only 8 out of all 14 eight-thousanders have been winter climbed. Before the addition of Italian Simone Moro last night, all first winter accents were made by Polish climbers in Calendar winter, from Everest in 1980 to Lhotse in 1988 - the last time (before tonight) someone set foot on a virgin summit higher than 8000m during the winter.
Simone Moro, Piotr Morawski, Jacek Jawien, Dariusz Zaluski and Jan Szulc repeated their winter attempt of last year.
Simone Moro, 37, was the driving force behind this current expedition. He has earlier summited Mount Everest, Broad Peak, Cho Oyu and Lhotse. In 1996, Simone reached the N. Summit of Shisha Pangma. Piotr Morawski took part in the 2003 K2 winter expedition, led by Polish Krzysztof Wielicki.
Images Simone top, Piotr bottom, over Contact 3.0 technology courtesy of the team.