Shisha Pangma summit push is on!
13:41 p.m. EST Jan 16, 2004
ExplorersWeb just received word from Simone’s team that he and Piotr planned to start their summit push today – 7 PM Euro time and 1 PM New York Time; just under an hour ago.
If the duo makes it, it’ll be the first winter ascent of Shisha Pangma and another first winter ascent for Poland. Simone, who is Italian, will give the motherland their first winter 8000m ascent.
To date, the Poles are the masters of winter. Of the 7, 8000ers scaled during the wintertime, the Polish did 6 of them first.
Simone’s latest satellite phonecall:
"Now we are in Camp 2, 7100 m. We climbed very well and fast, I took 4 ½ hours and Piotr 5. We carried up some more material, especially food, 50m of Kevlar and some extra mattress. In 8 hours we will start for our summit attempt, the first 200 meters we can climb on the ropes, but than we have to fix the last 200-300 meters till the and of the face. This work we have to do in the darkness of the night, because we will start from our tend at midnight (7 p.m. European time - 1 p.m. New York time). If there will be news I will call at home, so we can publish them on the homepage….
Pray for us and cross your fingers….!”
Simone Moro, 36, has summited Mount Everest, Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, Lhotse. This past summer, he also opened a new partial route on the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat, though he did not reach the summit. In 1996, Simone attained the N. Summit of Shisha Pangma. He is now attempting to make the first successful winter ascent of the peak, climbing via the South Face.
The expedition will climb Shisha Pangma’s South Face without the use of Sherpa support or supplementary oxygen. Originally, Krzysztof Wielicki was planning to be a part of the expedition, but bowed out recently due to family matters.
On the expedition is Italian climber Simone Moro, Polish climbers Piotr Morawski, Jacek Jawien and Darek Zaluski and Pierre Bergeron and Yvon Latreille, both from Quebec, Canada. Jas Szulc (POL) will accompany the team the base camp manager.
Image of Simone at Camp II courtesy of Simonemoro.com.