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Shisha Pangma summit push halted
09:51 a.m. EST Jan 17, 2004
At 2 pm local, Simone and Piotr reached 7700 meters in very cold conditions (-40/45C). At that point they encountered a cerac they would have to rappel down around 100 meters, and there was not enough rope. With sections of blue ice and windblown snow and a sequence of tough traverses where an easy ridge had been expected, it was too dangerous to continue.

The team turned back, and Simone is currently in Camp 2 with Darek. Piotr is tired and continued down to Camp 1. Tomorrow, if Simones finger is ok (he has some frostbite), he will try for another push with Darek tonight.

Simone Moro, 36, has summited Mount Everest, Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, Lhotse. This past summer, he also opened a new partial route on the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat, though he did not reach the summit. In 1996, Simone attained the N. Summit of Shisha Pangma. He is now attempting to make the first successful winter ascent of the peak, climbing via the South Face.

The expedition will climb Shisha Pangma’s South Face without the use of Sherpa support or supplementary oxygen. Originally, Krzysztof Wielicki was planning to be a part of the expedition, but bowed out recently due to family matters.

On the expedition is Italian climber Simone Moro, Polish climbers Piotr Morawski, Jacek Jawien and Darek Zaluski and Pierre Bergeron and Yvon Latreille, both from Quebec, Canada. Jas Szulc (POL) will accompany the team the base camp manager.

Image of Simone at Camp II courtesy of Simonemoro.com.


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