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Shisha Pangma's icy conditions may mean bivouac for climbers
08:59 a.m. EST Jan 5, 2004
Simone Moro and the Shisha Pangma team have returned to Base Camp after spending 3 difficult days on the 8,027m peak. Simone reports the face is “totally icy and vertical and we have to climb with helmets and two ice axes.” In the past few days, the climbers fixed 1,500m of rope up to 7,000m while dodging airborne stones and ice that continually fell from the summit ridge. They have not yet found a suitable location to place their last camp (C2) and are now considering a bivouac for the final attempt.

If the team reaches the summit of Shisha Pangma, they will be the first to complete a successful winter ascent of the peak.

Simone Moro, 36, has summited Mount Everest, Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, Lhotse. This past summer, he also opened a new partial route on the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat, though he did not reach the summit. In 1996, Simone attained the N. Summit of Shisha Pangma. He is now attempting to make the first successful winter ascent of the peak, climbing via the South Face.

The expedition will climb Shisha Pangma’s South Face without the use of Sherpa support or supplementary oxygen. Originally, Krzysztof Wielicki was planning to be a part of the expedition, but bowed out recently due to family matters.

On the expedition is Italian climber Simone Moro, Pierre Bergeron and Yvon Latreille, both from Quebec, Canada, and Polish climbers Piotr Morawski, Jacek Jawien and Darek Zaluski are also on the expedition. Jas Szulc (POL) will accompany the team the base camp manager.

Image of Shisha Pangma team courtesy of Simonemoro.com



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