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Shisha Pangma South Wall - Alpine style summit!
May 9, 2005 17: 32 EST
Ralf Dujmovits, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, and Hirotaka Takeuchi report that they successfully reached the summit of Shisha this Saturday. They made the summit in high winds, alpine style with 4 wall bivouacs.
After reaching the summit, the trio headed down the North side, thus completing a traverse of Shisha.
Gerlinde is the first woman to make the south wall of Shisha. The team is back in Base Camp on the South side are now heading over to Everest for the Super Couloir.
German climber Ralf Dujmovits, Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, and Japanese climber Hirotaka Takeuchi are rejoining forces this spring for some doubleheader action in the Himalaya.
They’ll attempt an Alpine style climb which includes Shisha South Face and Everest North Face though the Supercouloir (combination route on the Japanese Ridge and Hornbein Couloir).
Ralf Dujmovits started climbing at the age of 7 at The Battert, a climbing school near Baden-Baden (Southern Germany). Currently he is in charge of Amical Alpine, and has summited 10 8000ers: Dhaulagiri in 1990, Everest in 1992, K2 in 1994, Cho Oyu (1) in 1995, Shisha Pangma Central Summit in 1996, Shisha Pangma main Summit in 1997, Cho Oyu (2) in 1998, Broad Peak in 1999, GII in 2000, Nanga Parbat in 2001, Annapurna I in 2004, GI in 2004. He has guided teams on all those peaks, except Annapurna.
In 2004, Ralf, Gerlinde and Hirotaka summited Annapurna, after a serious attempt on Shisha Pangma South Face. In summer, they planned on climbing both Gasherbrums and K2, but poor weather conditions left them with only enough time to summit GI.
Ace female climber, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner has summited Cho Oyu, Makalu, Manaslu, Nanga Parbat, Annapurna and most recently Gasherbrum I: Six 8,000ers. Gerlinde is considered one of the top female high altitude climbers and is the 6th women to reach Anna's summit. She has also summited Shisha Pangma Central and Broad Peak.
Japanese climber Hirotaka has summited Makalu, Everest, K2, Nanga Parbat, and in 2004, he summited Annapurna and GI. He summited Everest and K2 back to back in 1996 and, at the age of 25, became the youngest climber to summit the world's two highest mountains. He now has six 8,000ers.
The Japanese Couloir/Hornbein Couloir combination route is one of the most difficult and dangerous routes on Everest. Few have attempted it, and fewer succeeded. Only Erhard Loteran and Jean Troillet summited without O2 in 1986. The last attempt took place in 2004, by an American climbing/snowboarding expedition led by Stephen Koch.
Image by Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner of Ralf and Hiro in Camp I on Pungpa Ri, courtesy of the expedition Team/Amical.de.
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