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Russian Everest NF climber 's Cho Oyu summit season's last, only 5% success rate
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May 30, 2005 03: 18 EST
Last year, On May 30th at 10 a.m. Pavel Shabalin, Iliyas Tukhvatullin and Andrey Mariev summited Everest by means of the first new route in 20 years. The next day, May 31st at 9:15am Petr Kuznetsov, Gleb Sokolov and Evgueny Vinogradsky summited. Then at 9.20 a.m. on June 1st the third group made history twice over by becoming the first to summit Everest in June.

Losing Everest June record

Remember the Russian Everest 2004 North Face expedition? Those were the days - much has changed in Himalaya in 2005. Not only will the third Everest group probably lose its June Everest record big time this year; in 2005, the lousy weather has forced expedition after expedition to abort their attempts on virtually every mountain (we are still waiting for news from Kangchenjunga).

320 climbers, 14 summited

Cho You has not been spared, either. RussianClimb.com mailed ExWeb this morning that they just got a letter from Kathmandu and Gleb Sokolov of the 2004 Everest North Face expedition, and now the Siberia Cho Oyu Expedition.

He wrote that two members of the expedition (Gleb Sokolov and Yuri Uteshev) summited Cho Oyu on May, 22 at 13.30. The rest of the team (two members) couldn't summit. The two climbers were the last to summit this 8000er this season. This year, there were a total of 320 climbers on this peak, but only 14 summited. The Siberian team will leave Kathmandu on June 1, and fly home.

Gleb is a Snow Leopard and also has Makalu 1996, Lhotse 1997 and 2000, Lhotse Shar 1998, Lhotse Middle 2001, Everest North Face 2004 and Cho Oyu 2005.

Here's a wrap-up on the Russian climbs in Himalaya this year: Maxut Zhumayev and Vassiliy Pivtsov (they are both from the Central Sport Club of Kazakhstan Army) summited Cho Oyu on May 3. The Siberia Cho Oyu Expedition (Gleb Sokolov, Yuri Uteshev +3) also summited (Gleb and Yuri, May 22). Yuri Koshelenko went for Melungtse - not with Iljas Tukhvatullin as planned - but with Nickolay Totmjanin and Carlos Buhler. The expedition aborted high up on the mountain, after Yuri contracted HAPE. Iljas Tukhvatullin had to cancel his project due to two eye surgeries. Serguey Bogomolov is continuing his project "14K" - he and Gia Tortladze joined the Spanish Manaslu expedition. The expedition was aborted after a big storm and lightning.

Image of Gleb Sokolov, courtesy of RussianClimb.com.


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