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No O2 Everest climbers: Carlos Pauner goes home, Jarle Tra goes up!
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May 26, 2005 09: 34 EST
Two climbers without supplementary oxygen, two sides of the mountain, the same tough decision and opposite results: Spaniard Carlos Pauner (South Side) has aborted his attempt; Norwegian Jarle Tra (North Side) is sticking with his no O2 summit bid.

Summit next Saturday?

Jarle spent last night in ABC (6400m) on Everest’s North Side. He planned to reach C2 today (7500m). Jarle is climbing on his own, without Sherpa support or O2. He doesn’t even have pre-set higher camps. “Although conditions are not optimal, I am optimistic,” reported Jarle. “I am launching my bid tonight and therefore I hope to reach the summit on Saturday.” Jarle expects to make a report from 7500 meters tomorrow.

Carlos Pauner: Time is up

On the South Side of Everest, Spaniard Carlos Pauner couldn’t stand the pressure any longer. With an expedition to Nanga Parbat scheduled in just two weeks, he was running out of time. His permit for Everest will end on May 31st and he felt his chances for success were slim to none. After studying the situation, he decided it wasn’t worth it to stay. He is returning home tomorrow with Javier Perez (who intended to use supplementary O2 and film Carlos’ ascent). Jesus Calleja, who is sharing a climbing permit with them, will remain on the mountain hoping for a last-minute opportunity.

Climbers switching Oxygen systems

Javier Perez’s O2 will not be wasted, though. The Valencia team, who was using the Summit Oxygen system, has heard the news of the O2 system failures at high altitude, and they quickly bought up Javier’s unused Poisk bottles.

ExplorersWeb has been covering the Summit Oxygen system failures for the last few days, and the news has spread in BC through the internet and the climbers’ first-hand testimonies. Adventure Consultants reported earlier today that they have been warning all climbers using Summit O2 of the potential problems they may have, and recommending users to switch to Poisk while they can.

Jarle has climbed Cho Oyu, Denali, Kilimanjaro and many of the 4000ers in the Alps. He has also skied across Greenland and trekked the Norwegian mainland from the south to the north - approximately 3000 km. He works as an industrial climber on the oil-platforms in the North Sea.

Carlos Pauner was born in Jaca (Huesca, Spain) in 1964. Cho Oyu, summited in autumn 2004 was his fifth 8000+ peak. Carlos has summited K2, Makalu, Kangchenjunga and GI. He has reached the summit ridge of Broad Peak and attempted Everest and Annapurna (south side).

Top image of Carlos Pauner several days ago in Everest BC, courtesy of Carlos Pauner. Bottom image of Jarle Traa last year, courtesy of Jarle Tra.


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