Mt. Siguniang debrief: "This time we beat the curse"
Dec 2, 2004 15: 27 EST
In October 2003 Tim Boelter and climbing partner Jon Otto attempted the 20,505 foot Mt. Siguniang in the Sichuan province of southwest China. The mountain is one of the “Four Maidens” — four striking peaks that stand side by side like sisters.
The attempt of this stylish alpine pyramid was cut short because of unrelenting and dangerous rock falls. This vertical technical rock and ice climb lived up to its reputation.
Comeback
Last month, Tim and Jon returned to this beautiful, diverse region known as the Asian Alps for another attempt and to continue the film they'd started.
And this time, luck was on their side. The expedition made web logs and audio throughout the climb, there are film cuts on the website, and here's an excerpt from November 23, "Tim's final thought":
"I may have underestimated the challenges"
I have climbed on some Himalayan giants including Everest and Cho Oyu, and have endured the frigid temperatures of Denali, but the cold, the winds, and the continuous dangers of avalanches on the slopes of Siguniang added a different dimension of difficulty.
For me the trip had its difficulties, perhaps I should have worn double boots instead of single leathers, my feet are still slightly swollen and without feeling. I may have underestimated the challenges of Siguniang, but why would I do such a thing? Perhaps I didn’t learn from 2003.
I could see Jon waving
“Siguniang has a curse,” says Chen Junchi to me while we’re being battered by continuous winds and avalanches. Yes it does, I thought. But we beat the curse.
On November 17th I departed glacier camp (16,200 feet) at 10:00 am for the end of the fixed lines, my intentions were to reach the top of the fixed lines and film. At approximately 3:30 pm Jon and Ma Yihua were just within sight on the upper face of the mountain. I could see Jon waving his hand motioning me to hurry.
And I did, by 4:30 pm I could see Jon cresting the final snow ridge. His pack lit up from the sunlight hitting it and I knew he was on top. He turned and looked down and then both arms went into the air, it was the top."
November 17, 2004 — Tim Boelter, Jon Otto, and Ma Yihua all successfully reached the summit of Siguniang.
Image of Tim Boelter filming Mt. Siguniang, courtesy of the team.
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