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More Annapurna - hello from Baruntse!
15:28 p.m. EST Apr 13, 2004
Before heading for Annapurna, Denis Urubko and Simone Moro are on a new route on Baruntse with Bruno Tassi. Here's Denis full latest report (and check also Simone's multi lingual website for his dispatch from today):
10 April , 2004 Hi! How's our Kazakhstan team?
All's OK. We set the Base Camp April 6 at 5100. We can see the South Face of Lhotse from here. It's too far from our base to the Face - it's in the next gorge, and it takes us 2 hours to reach it.
We set ABC April 7 at 5250 m, and yesterday I together with Boris Korshunov brought loads to ABC. We just decided that we'll probably reset our ABC 400 m East, more close to the route we chose.
The North-West Face of Baruntse is impressive. The altitude difference - from 5400 till 7050, is 1650 m. The rocks are a very strange kind here, but I'm sure the hooks will be safe. According to our plan, we'll climb in alpine style after the acclimatization.
We have time till the end of April. I'm lucky that Boris Korshunov is here. In spite of his age, he's in such a great shape that I can't keep up with him! He acclimatizes here before the Annapurna climb, and tells me a lot of old mountaineering stories. Unfortunately he lost all his luggage, including the sponsored gear from BASK, so we shared with him what we could.
The day before yesterday I had planned to rest, but ended up doing a rescue instead. Our cook became very ill. The kitchen boy and I carried him down and I gave him a lot of pills. He's in the valley now - from there porters helped him to reach the village. All our members (Simone, Boris, Bruno and Barbara) were at Khala Pattar on acclimatization.
Our new cook Biby arrived to Base Camp from Namche Bazaar. Simone and Bruno will now bring loads to ABC, and probably also reset the camp to the new place.
Speaking about the route on Baruntse, Dennis said; "There will be 2000 meters of vertical ice and rock face that we’ll try to climb in light style (alpine). The top of our face is not the real summit and for that reason we will have to continue our climb on the final ridge till the very top at 7129 meters. Our idea is to then make the descent via the North ridge”.
Image of the team, from left to right: Denis, Boris, Simone, Bruno, courtesy Russianclimb.com.
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