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Makalu aces back in Himalaya for Chomo-Lonzo virgin sub peaks
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Apr 4, 2005 13: 01 EST
Last spring, Yannick Graziani, Patrick Wagnon, and Christian Trommsdorff attempted to open the East face of Makalu, on the Tibetan side. They had to reconsider due to the excess of snow and went for the NE ridge, through which Yannick would finally summit.

The only success

It was a beautiful performance, and the only success on the mountain that year - away from the normal route. A British military team tried the SE ridge, but aborted in bad weather. French climber Jean Christophe Lafaille attempted to solo a new route, finally reaching the summit of the subsidiary Makalu II. American Jay Sieger and Ukrainian Vladislav Terzyul both died on the mountain. The risks are high when facing the ‘Great Black’.

Two virgin summits of Chomo-Lonzo

This year, under the leadeship of Christophe Moulin of the FFME, 7 mountaineers have been chosen to compete on two virgin summits of Chomo-Lonzo, a satellite of Makalu. Chomo-Lonzo's main summit (7,790 m) was first climbed in 1954 by Lionnel Terray and Jean Couzy as a rec climb for Makalu. The middle summit (7,540 m) and the NW summit (7, 195 m) has never been climbed.

The 8 climbers will arrive at base camp towards mid-April and summit push will take place during the first fortnight of May. They will choose style at the foot of the mountain, climbing in separate rope teams.

The expedition members are: Patrick Wagnon, Christian Trommsdorff, Yannick Graziani, Christophe Moulin, Stephan Benoist, Patrice Glairon-Rappaz, Yann Bonneville and Aymeric Clouet.

Image of Christian Trommsdorff, courtesy Christian.

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