Kammerlander and friends: Looking for 'Fortune' in the Himalaya|
Apr 25, 2005 16: 54 EST
Italian Hans Kammerlander is back in the Himalaya where he will attempt to open a new route on Jasemba (7,350m) along with Karl Unterkircher and Alois Brugger.
Mount Jasemba, whose name in Nepalese means “Fortune”, belongs to the Cho Oyu group, rising right on the border between Nepal and Tíbet. Kammerlander has wanted to climb it since he first saw its impressive silhouette and steep slopes.
Kammerlander told the Ansa news agency that he couldn’t find any confirmed ascents of Jasemba. “However, the peak has probably been summited by Chinese climbers from the Tibetan side. Otherwise, the mountain has been closed to foreigners until a few years ago.”
“I think we will be the first team attempting its Nepal-facing wall, 2500m long and much more difficult than the Tibetan side.”
Descending the fast way
Once again, Hans is taking along his skis, intending to ski down from the summit. Kammerlander has impressed the climbing community not only with his new routes and solo ascents, but with his unorthodox descents as well. He has accomplished partial ski descents on Everest, Shisha Pangma, Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak and Kangchenjunga.
The team departed Monaco last week.
Uninterested in collecting peaks
Hans Kammerlander has summited 12 8000ers, only Manaslu and Shisha Pangma Main remain. However, he may never complete the famous ‘list of the highest peaks on Earth’. Hans once said he would never return to Manaslu, where he lost two climbing mates during an expedition in 1991. Last week, right before departure, he told the media he was not interested in collecting peaks.
“I am not interested in following a caravan of climbers up to the summit,” he said. “I find this expedition to a mysterious 7000m peak much more exciting. There is almost no information on it.”
Hans Kammerlander has summited 12 8000ers without supplementary O2, plus Shisha Pangma central. He has opened about 50 new routes all over the world and broke some speed records. He has descended on skis many of the peaks he has climbed.
Karl Unterkircher summited Everest and K2 without supplementary O2 last year, as a member of the huge Italian team ‘K2 50 years after.’
Image of Mount Jasemba and compiled image of Karl Unterkircher, courtesy of Montagna.org. image of Hans Kammerlander, courtesy of Kammerlander.com