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Jan 17th for Shisha Pangma summit
09:11 a.m. EST Jan 12, 2004
Simone Moro and the Shisha Pangma team will await more ideal weather forecast for later this week before making their summit attempt. The small expedition originally planned to head up on the 10th, but after “working like horses” in hauling up provisions and fixing ropes, the guys still had roughly 300 meters left to the top of the face (unclimbed in winter), and then another 600 meters to the summit along what they expect to be an easier ridge. They decided to rest a couple of days, and reset their plans for later this week.

Simone reports that after climber Darek Zaluski returned to base camp from a night spent at C2 and ABC, leader Jan Szulc informed them by radio that he would try for the summit this morning using the bottle of oxygen that he carried to ABC for safety. Piotr and Simone were both surprised and disappointed, because they’d worked for one month fixing rope and hoped to make the first attempt. After the news sank in with the team, Simone said, “Jan arrived back in base camp smiling and joking with us....... "bastard" !!!!” Joking all along.

Looking at the weather forecast, the team is setting January 17th as the target summit date. That could be cutting things a little close. On the 19th, “the yaks start from base camp to go back.”

Simone Moro, 36, has summited Mount Everest, Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, Lhotse. This past summer, he also opened a new partial route on the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat, though he did not reach the summit. In 1996, Simone attained the N. Summit of Shisha Pangma. He is now attempting to make the first successful winter ascent of the peak, climbing via the South Face.

The expedition will climb Shisha Pangma’s South Face without the use of Sherpa support or supplementary oxygen. Originally, Krzysztof Wielicki was planning to be a part of the expedition, but bowed out recently due to family matters.

On the expedition is Italian climber Simone Moro, Polish climbers Piotr Morawski, Jacek Jawien and Darek Zaluski and Pierre Bergeron and Yvon Latreille, both from Quebec, Canada. Jas Szulc (POL) will accompany the team the base camp manager.

Image of Piotr on the wall courtesy of Simonemoro.com






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