Friends of chance Summit Shisha Pangma Central
May 15, 2004 01: 49 EST
Hey Guys ! Don't forget about us!
Maximo Henostroza from Huaraz, Peru and Marek Wencel from USA/ Poland made the first summit of Shishapangma (central) - already on May 7 th at 3:05 pm Nepal time.
"The weather was good, but the snow conditions were dicy to continue to the main summit. We did push to the summit from C-2" they write in an e-mail tonight.
Maximo is the first Peruvian on the summit of Shishapangma Central .
Marek Wencel, a Polish immigrant currently living in Seattle, told ExplorersWeb recently how he ended up meeting his climbing friend:
"In 2002 I was leading a small expedition of friends to climb Huascaran, 6776m. Unfortunately, our strongest link on the team bailed 2 weeks prior to departure. So, already weakened, the 3 of us showed up in Huaraz, Northern Peru, about a month before the season started.
After spending few days there we realized that no one had attempted anything big yet. The whole town was telling us scary things about deep snow, bad weather etc, etc… After a team discussion we decided that it'd be best to look for a local guide and after few hours we stumbled upon this guy Maximo Henostroza and his uncle Glicerio. At first I was apprehensive about it, but after a long conversation and few cups of coffee we decided to hire Maximo’s team.
What sealed the deal was his work ethics. We were told to pay only for food and transport/mules to the trailhead, and pay them only after the expedition. So, as it turned out, there was no deep snow and the only bad weather we had was a few drops on a day we arrived and one more for good bye. We really had much fun during the expedition and boy, the dinner after!!!!!"
Sometimes when things look bleak and you’ve got people telling you not to go, a team member that backed out – you never know what’s going to happen! Maximo is an Everest veteran from 2001 and has even been up to 7500m on Shish before. Marek has climbed Denali, Aconcagua, and reached 7100m on Cho Oyu.
Standing at 8,027m, Shisha Pangma is the lowest of the world’s fourteen 8000m peaks. And not surprisingly, it was also the last to be summited. It is the only 8000er that lies entirely in Tibet, and was closed to western climbers until 1978. The crux is the final ridge to the true summit, where weather conditions sometimes render it too dangerous to climb.
Image of Marek and Maximo on the summit of Huascaran courtesy of Marek Wencel.
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