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Fixing Shisha Pangma
12:56 p.m. EST Dec 30, 2003
Simone and the crew are on track. So far they’ve fixed rope up to 6700m on Shisha Pangma. Some of the team’s been working high for the past three days and have just returned down to Base Camp. Lines have been fixed and anchored well enough to allow for jumaring* on the rope. Tomorrow, two of the team will head up and ferry some rope up to 6700m – enabling another crew to head up afterwards and fix above.

Simone reports that they haven’t found a place for Camp II, but are working on solving that problem.

Simone Moro, 36, has summited Mount Everest, Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, Lhotse. This past summer, he also opened a new partial route on the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat, though he did not reach the summit. In 1996, Simone attained the N. Summit of Shisha Pangma. He is now attempting to make the first successful winter ascent of the peak, climbing via the South Face.

The expedition will climb Shisha Pangma’s South Face without the use of Sherpa support or supplementary oxygen. Originally, Krzysztof Wielicki was planning to be a part of the expedition, but bowed out recently due to family matters.

On the expedition is Italian climber Simone Moro, Pierre Bergeron and Yvon Latreille, both from Quebec, Canada, and Polish climbers Piotr Morawski, Jacek Jawien and Darek Zaluski are also on the expedition. Jas Szulc (POL) will accompany the team the base camp manager.

*Jumaring – A jumar is a device that clips onto a climbing rope and can be fed one way, but will lock up if pulled in the opposite direction. By attaching one to a fixed line, you can effectively pull your way up the line – even a vertical rope if it’s anchored well.

Recent image from Shish courtesy of SimoneMoro.com.

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