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ExplorersWeb Week in Review
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Agu 28, 2004 00: 03 EST
It's that time again! Fall expeditions are in Kathmandu or heading out to their Base Camps in the midst of Mao sieges and a 50 year Cho Oyu anniversary to celebrate. Dutch North side Everest just reached BC Friday.

But first, a desperate battle on the North Atlantic: Rower Andreas Rommel has a whopping 2000 miles left to his UK destination, and hurricanes are coming his way: "All of a sudden, my boat capsized. It didn’t turn over as fast as the first time. I laid on the roof for much too long. I felt like a hamster in a cage-wheel. I was totally in shock. This was it, I thought. Then the boat self-righted again. My survival suit and my beacon were ready. I felt my boat wasn’t going to take it this time.

The center of my boat was full of water, as well as all my compartments on deck. It took me two hours to get all the water out. Now I won’t have warm food anymore. I feel like I’m turning into Robinson Crusoe in the middle of the ocean. On a brighter note, the day the storm started, I saw a sea turtle."

We are in BC! The Dutch Everest North side expedition arrived in Everest base camp yesterday: "We have arrived in basecamp at 5200 meters. We climbed up to 5500 meters, but some of us didn't feel too great by the altitude so we are taking a break to recover. Boris even went down 1000 meters to a hotel. He'll come back up to BC when he feels better. Harry too has arrived in BC. He is working out the laptop which is crucial for our mails and weather forecasts starting September 1. The plan is to ascend to 5800 meters Sunday, and Monday to 6400, pending the yaks arrival with our gear."

Financing Everest - take two A few weeks back we ran an article on creative ways to finance Everest and other explorations. The Wall Street Journal chatted with ExplorersWeb about the various expedition costs, and ran their own story on the subject, focusing on good old corporate sponsorship.

A coming spectator sport Climbing is in fact turning into a spectator sport these days, with the help of technology. This is a crucial change that will help bring big corporate money into climbing, much like it has done to sailing. But forget the easy money. Working tech on expeditions takes commitment, skill and hard work. Check out Simone Moro's extensive advise on the subject.

Newbies in the deathzone Cho Oyu, “The Turquoise Goddess” in Tibetan language, is by far the mountain chosen by most climbers as their first experience with 8000+ peaks. Its fame as an ‘easy mountain’ has often left Cho Oyu very underestimated, and there lay precisely its most serious risk. But if you do make it to the summit, you'll only know it when you spot Everest from there. How do you know in fog, clouds or overcast conditions? Well, that's one of the reasons of the high failure rate on Cho Oyu. But just in case, here are the coordinates: 28°05'37" N 86°39'43" E.

Summit at last? MD Emili Duran is off to Cho Oyu, with his son Dani, and their life-long friend Jose Luis Benito. He saved the life of the "The Dolomiti Spider" on Shisha, but Emili still have his own summit to climb. Will Cho Oyu be the one? Dani, 23, is joining his dad and this will be his first Himalayan experience. "He tries on his boots every day. This is an amazing adventure for him, especially as Dani has never been on an airplane before! Now that's all he can think of: "Instead of ‘hey, it is a truly high mountain’, I occasionally over-hear him muttering and shaking his head:‘Hey, it is really a long flight!” ends Emili his interview with ExWeb and packs down another box of Aspirin.

A combo altitude skiers are crossing over to Tibet for a double header with an extreme sky descent included. Their mission: To climb Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma back to back, and take the fast way down - on skis. It's also a preparation for an Everest ski descent in 2006. ExWeb caught up with one of the climbers for a chat in the middle of a late summer storm in Chamonix.


The mountains are restless. Check out the incredible K2climb.net story of Siachen - the world's highest killing field. A war that was ignited by a climbing permit, and have lost more lives to AMS and Hypothermia than actual enemy fire.

The Magic Line climbers, the best expedition of the 2004 K2 season, left Pakistan saddened by the death of team-member Manel de la Matta. In their last dispatch from Islamabad, they give their own recount of the events that took place in the drama of the summit week: "We lost our best climbing partner to K2, our best friend in the mountains as in life."

Winter climb of Aconcagua in preps for Everest 2005 A team of Brazil climbers invited a team of Argentinean climbers for a winter climb of Aconcagua (6962m/22841 feet) in preps for Everest 2005. The expedition summited the weekend of August 7 and 8, during the Southern Hemisphere winter. With that, they became the first Brazilians to summit Aconcagua in winter; and the first to climb the South face of a mountain they’ve already summited five times.

Tom Crusie wants to climb Mount Everest He's got a to-do wish list and climbing Everest is on top of it. "I work night and day trying to get it done," he says.

It's a go for a North-East passage July 16 the Siberian ice finally broke around Campina, but Henk still couldn't go anywhere. Like a captive free of his chains only to find himself stuck on an island, Henk was fretting over the ice maps, and began to worry that he'd have another year in the Siberian harbor of Tiksi. But Friday, August 20, icebreaker Captain Boris Volnij finally took off in the direction of the bottleneck: Tsjeljuskin. Ahead is very tricky sail to cover 500 miles among countless ice bergs and ice floes.

It's a go for a Bering Sea crossing They purchased the sailboat on E-Bay only a few months ago, modified it into a row boat, and were ready to cross the Bering Sea. Two days and a storm later, they ended up tied up to Professor Kromov, an enormous Russian research vessel. Check the pics on the ExWeb Poles section. Saturday Tim and Colin went back out on the Bering sea, and so far all good!

Dom Mee and fellow Royal Navy/Marines had 5 visits of polar bears in one day and found Sir John Ross steam engine from his ship 'The Victory'.

Another rower bites the dust "Today, August 23, 2004 at 06:10GMT both EPIRB and Argos beacon onboard “Mrs D’s Viking Spirit” were activated. Coast Guard in Juneau Alaska have requested that German ship ‘Hanjin Philadelphia’ go to the assistance of Mick Dawson. Last entry: "Mick is saved."

Youngest woman solo sail around the world - get ready for Roslin! "April 6th. I nip into the house for lunch and the phone rang. John McMillan from Scotland is on the other end. He asked me what I thought about his international negotiating company becoming the title sponsor. I think that’s a “YES!” Roslin Forrest, 22, is off end September to become the youngest woman to sail around the world single handed and non-stop.

Jean Pavillard helped heart transplant survivor Kelly Perkins and her husband Craig to reach the top of Matterhorn last year. Now Jean is in Kathmandu preparing his small 3 climbers expedition for Cho Oyu. They are another expedition using Contact 3.0, so get ready for some great shots and dispatches - satellites willing!

Another cybercast Cho Oyu Alpine Ascents are using Contact 3.0 and the cybercasts have started, live from Tibet! Lakpa Rita Sherpa - the world's first Sherpa to summit Mount Vinson at Antarctica and a seven time Everest summiteer is guiding, and so is Dave Morton.

Full stories at ExplorersWeb.com!

Image on Everest North Base Camp, courtesy of Dan Lochner.
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2004 BEST of EXPLORERSWEB
 
 
1. Magic Line   
K2
2. Russian Jannu Exp.   
Jannu North Face
3. Over Everest - Richard
      Over Everest - Angelo   
Everest Ultra light
4. Dominick Arduin   
North Pole
5. Spaceship One   
Space
6. Central North Wall   
Mount Everest
7. Russian Extreme Pr.    
Amin Brakk BASE jump
8. Fiona & Rosie    
South Pole

Special mention:

Edurne Pasaban
Juanito Oiarzabal
K2

Henk De Velde
North West Passage

Pavel Rezvoy
Atlantic

Nawang Sherpa
Everest

The Spirit of Adventure

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