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Everest daily wrap up: Pinpointing locations
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Apr 20, 2004 11: 44 EST
Many teams are moving up the mountain this week with hopes of reaching the high altitude camps. North side teams power part intermediate camp, while south teams approach the Lhotse wall. A ladder collapse in the ice fall had delayed some progress.

Everest Weather

No Jet is reported in the area during the week. On the summit there is a Northwest wind 10-15 m/s. Wednesday the wind will be turning to west 5-10 m/s and from Saturday increasing south westerly with speeds up to 15-20 m/s.

A ridge is passing with mainly dry weather, but from Wednesday on minor troughs will cause some showers. At the end of the week a low is deepening over Kashmir and then moving towards Everest.

Everest North: Better weather means progress

Victor Kozlov has called from BC reporting that Shabaline's group has fixed two difficult ropes through the first bastion above Camp1. Kuznetsov's group is at 6200 now. The group led by Pavel Shabaline said that they were lucky to organize the small place for the tent at C1. C1 was originally planned at 6900, but there has been a very bad avalanche danger.

All members of Everest/K2 2004 expedition have set up BC. Soro Dorotei reports; "Finally, trucks containing all materials have arrived. There is nearly no snow on Everest summit, and I think that from Camp 2 onwards it will be very difficult for us to set up tents". They also report that no teams have made it past ABC.

Tom and Ben Clowes compare altitudes; “BC 5200m is quite a lot higher than Mont Blanc 4807m. ABC 6400m is higher than Kilimanjaro 5895m. In the 22km climb up the Rongbuk Glacier from BC to ABC, with an overnight stop at Intermediate Camp, we will have gained 1200m. Arriving today at ABC we will be very tired and will need a few days for acclimatization and recuperation. ABC is 1 ½ vertical miles above us”.

Rex, Ron and Wilco go from BC to ABC to determine the damage to their camp caused by last weeks high winds. Wilco has been prescribed antibiotics for his infected molar and reports that it seems to be helping. They report that ropes are not finished being fixed above ABC.

Patrick Bernier has gone up to intermediate camp. “We arrived after 6 hours of climbing, a few minutes after a snowstorm hit the camp. There was another evacuation, a woman member of the expedition had a panic attack from the lack of oxygen and perhaps caused by a bad acclimatization. She had to head down to BC, helped by 3 Sherpas”. Patrick plans to head to ABC today.

The Greek north team is currently at BC waiting for the weather to improve. "We already went up to Intermadiate Camp yesterday and then came back down to BC, we plan on reaching ABC by Monday".

David Tait and Himex have set off for interim camp yesterday some 11km and 650m higher than base camp. The Russian Adventure team is in BC.

Everest South: Camp 3 approaches

The Greek south side spent the night at Camp 1, moving on to Camp 2 today where they will spend some time and hopefully spend a night at Camp 3. This will perhaps be their longest period above BC.

The Mexican-Canadian team will start to camps 2 and 3 tomorrow. The team departure has been delayed by instability in the icefall which was closed yesterday and today. The icefall doctors are busy fixing the route in the icefall and replacing the ladders that had fallen down. They are expected to finish their job today thus allowing our climbers to leave at around 4 AM tomorrow morning. They will first go directly to camp 2 and sleep there. The next day they will go up to camp 3 and even farther if possible but they will come back to camp 2 to sleep and to rest. They expect to be gone for about a week before they return to Base Camp.

Annabelle Bond and the Chileans report that the 5-ladder crossing collapsed in the night. Teams choosing to head up the icefall, before the ladders are fixed by the icefall doctors, must now rappel down into the crevasse and climb back out the other side.

Ed Viesturs and Veikka are at Camp 2. “We are at the very top end of the moraine. There are a lot of other expeditions that are camped here. This is where we will hang out now for the next three or four days, not only to acclimatize but also to do some filming. We also have many loads that still need to be brought up from Camp 1. So what we do from here is we do drop carries. We spend the night here, we drop down to Camp 1 pick up a load and bring it back up here. Its very windy up high, we can hear the jet stream scraping its way across the summit. It sounds like a 747 is parked up there at full throttle, but it is very calm and benign here at Camp 2.

Mountain.ru | Russian Climb | Irish dispatches | David Tait's dispatches | Adventure Consultants dispatches | Alpine Ascents | K2 2004 | Dutch paraglide | Mexican/Canadian | Hellas Everest | Ed Viesturs | Annabelle bond

Image of climber crossing crevasse in the icefall courtesy of Alpine Ascents.
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