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Everest daily wrap up: Jet wind over Everest!
21:52 p.m. EST Apr 18, 2004
Hurricane-force winds did some damage yesterday, but nothing too serious. Teams all report high winds, but few were up high enough to feel the full effects. This weekend, as weather improves, there will be a lot of movement to higher camps on both sides of Everest.

Everest Weather

Hurricane force winds that were reported by AdventureWeather yesterday have been confirmed by several expeditions; and the climbers were well prepared.

Today, there is a north westerly jet over Everest that will be weakening during the weekend and moving south. At the summit there is a west-northwest 25-35 m/s wind, during Saturday decreasing to 10-15 m/s, with minor lows passing north of Everest with precipitation at times due to a couple of passing troughs over the Himalayas. The lows are followed by a ridge next week with drier weather.

Everest North: The first toilet in BC, flying tents in ABC.

The first ‘real’ toilet on Everest. Yesterday we heard about the Russian Adventure Team’s escape from Kathmandu, today Alexander Abramov reports about the future of some boards they found in Jangmu:

“We have decided to build a toilet at Base Camp. Nobody has done it before. It will be Russian know-how 'Toilet with a light and a heating seat'. The toilet is the place where people spend a tenth of their life. So why should we spoil our life with crooked and falling toilet-tents? It is a pity that we are short of time to take photos and video and send them to Moscow”.

High winds level ABC The Dutch paragliders have set up ABC only to see their kitchen tent get leveled by the hurricane-force winds. They are safe in BC but suffer some minor altitude: Wilco is having problems with his molars (!) but the expedition doctor has said that the pain is altitude related and will pass.

Teams are collecting in BC, some are moving up to ABC. Italian K2/Everest has made it to Tingri, their gear will be arriving late due to the strikes in Nepal. Adventure Peaks is in BC, no new updates. Patrick Bernier will be heading up to ABC today. Andy and Ian Prentice have finally updated since their last one on the 29th of March, they are in BC.

Both they and Patrick report that a member of the expedition has gone to lower altitudes because of HAPE, though they say he is doing ok. Dan Lochner and Team Endeavor are making their way to ABC this weekend. David Tait reports that there is some friction among the members of the expedition, they move on to ABC also this weekend.

Everest South: Heading up through the Western Cwm.

The Irish team is in BC, a sad mood has overcome their little Irish expedition: "Due to sleep deprivation, exhaustion and mild mountain sickness, one of our team members, John Joyce, has been evacuated. In John's own words 'the mountain has beaten me and I will go knowing I gave it my best shot'.

Now that John has left our team there is a deep sense of loss. However, as a team we must re-gather our strength to face the challenge ahead and conquer the fear that sits in the recess of our minds. We must now more then ever cast our negative emotions and thoughts aside. Clare, the Sherpas and I will continue upwards in our quest for the top of the world and shall not quit until we have given it our best shot or the mountain/weather beats us.

This is a verse that was given to me by my mother when I despaired most in my life. 'Don't quit' - last verse:

Success is failure turned inside out, with a silver tint of cloud of doubt. You can never tell how close you are, it may seem far, but be so near. So stick to the fight when you're hardest hit. It's when times are tough that you must not quit."

Lots of action up ahead. Joe Hughes has not updated since Liz’ departure, he is in BC. Khoo Swee will be making his way up to C3 this weekend if the ropes are fixed there by then. The Alpine Ascents team has been working on the heli pad and a practice ladder-crossing in BC. Adventure Consultants will arrive in BC tomorrow. Mountain Madness is climbing back from C1.

Other Mountains: High winds letting up, big moves ahead.

Denis and Boris bond in bad times on Baruntse. Denis has reported that there has been hurricane winds on Baruntse. “Early morning Boris and I were going up the Wall in spite of the hurricane in Himalaya. The wind rambled at Baruntse. We climbed up from the altitude 5650 m, where we stopped through the snow-icy couloirs. The dusty snow avalanches fell down to the bottom of the mount, than rose to the sky again. Stones felt down from the mist periodically”.

Stalwart Brits on Makalu. British Services Makalu reports; “Our guys up at Camp 1 have been thwarted by the weather today. They had a very uncomfortable night up on the ridge, buffeted by extremely strong winds which continued into today.

This did not prevent them from fixing the initial part of the ridge before they went to bed last night. The rest of us got up at Base Camp and despite the bad weather, we all did a load carry to Camp 1. Our aim is to get sufficient food, gas and climbing kit in to equip Camp 2 on the South East Col at the earliest opportunity”.

Fixing grass on Annapurna. This just in from Piotr: "We just returned to Base Camp. The weather is still bad. Today, a five-people team went up but had to return, because of very bad weather conditions. We only reached the altitude of our earlier deposit. The visibility was so bad, that we decided to return to ABC and further down to Base Camp.

The way from ABC to BC wasn’t easy either. Snow/rain fall made the surface very slippery, so we decided to put two ropes on the grass for our safety!
I know it’s strange and maybe funny, but safety's first. Our overall situation is not too bad either, as we have much gear stored near the face, and we need only two days of good weather to establish Camp I."

Ski8000 getting close Joost and Greg on Cho Oyu left for Camp 1. After nearly 4 hours they arrived and report that the weather is fine. It is all sunshine above Camp 1. Tomorrow the team will go to Camp 2, again a long climb through the ceracs.


Russian Climb

Irish dispatches

David Tait's dispatches

Adventure Consultants dispatches

Alpine Ascents


Khoo Swee’s dispatches

Dutch paraglide


British Services Makalu

Patrick Bernier

British Brothers

Image of cliber crossing a three-ladder crevasse courtesy of Khoo Swee Chiow.

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