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Everest North Face Expedition - second Ama Dablam summit
10:41 a.m. EST Mar 15, 2004
Most climbers have not yet left home but the Russians are already on their second summit. Mountain.ru reports that Viktor Kozlov just called in with a live voice dispatch: "Today, at 13h30 local time, the second group (Petr Kuznetsov, Nikolay Chorniy, Vladimir Arhipov and Gleb Sokolov) has summited Ama Dablam."

The 3d group is at 6200m now and will set out tomorrow early morning for their summit attempt:
"In the morning we enjoyed sunny weather conditions but in the afternoon there are the high cirrus we have become accustomed to." The first group already summited and are en route to Base Camp. These guys mean business!

Perhaps the most exciting expedition on Everest this spring will be the Russians. A crack team will be attempting Everest via the center of the North Face. This is a severe, technical climb to the left of the Hornbein/Japanese couloir. The guys are going straight up, on a clean and lofty face. The technical difficulty of the route along with the extreme altitude makes this one of the most difficult challenges in mountaineering.

The expedition is a Russian dream team. There are previous Everest summiteers, Golden Ice Axe winners, and many, many 8000m veterans. Koshelenko, who just made the first summit of Nuptse East will be on the team as well. The Russians also have a young 22 year old Alexey Bukinich Koshelenko pulled for him, and he made the team.

Archive image of Ama Dablam's SW Ridge courtesy of Adventure Consultants.

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