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Everest summit push and weather update
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May 28, 2005 11: 59 EST
Eraly this morning, south side climbers reported from C2 that the winds come and go above, yet teams were headed to 3, perhaps encouraged by the Everest north side summit in high winds two nights back. But the current situation is not ideal; 50 knot winds make for some tough push.

SMHI: Jet slowly weakening and moving NE Sunday

Here's a quick check of the latest weather reports on Everest: Yesterday's report from SMHI said that the jet wind, currently over Everest area will start slowly weakening and moving northeastwards on Sunday. The current 25-30 m/s winds at summit level should decrease to 20-25 m/s on Sunday, and to 15-20 m/s later in the period. At 7500 meters, wind blows SW at about 10-15 m/s.

WNI: Ridge lifting the jet to the NE, perhaps a small weather break by the end of the weekend

WNI pretty much agreed: "Latest satellite imagery is showing most of the moisture and cloudiness to the north of Mount Everest. Although the monsoon is on schedule, its moisture remains to the south of the Mountain while a ridge is lifting the jet to the northeast, giving perhaps, a small weather window by the end of the weekend.

Above 7500m - Winds are still 20-25 m/s today, but easing to 12-18 m/s tomorrow, then 10-15 m/s Sunday through the first half of the coming week. A few clouds will be seen, under mainly high sunshine through the weekend. A few troughs moving into the region for the coming week allow cloudiness to return to the Mountain, with winds remaining at lighter levels through next Thursday."

Jet gone Wednesday?

The jet movement is causing erratic winds. It could easily be 10 m/s one day and 25 the next. We might not necessarily get the slam-dunk weather of last year even though the window is moving in. A few days back, the weather maps and the tables showed the jet wind gone from the Everest area early Wednesday morning, June 1, and a period of very low winds of less than 10m/s (22 mph) at the summit. The monsoon has advanced over south Andaman Sea and over southern parts of Bay of Bengal.

South side: Single Push tonight, push wave 30/31, others holding for next week

Virtually every remaining team going for the South Col route is currently positioned in C2, for a possible push through Sunday and next week. Alpine Ascents planned to move to camp III today, Saturday 28th, and then to camp IV - South Col - on Sunday, to rest on oxygen for a day and then set off about 10pm on the 30th for a summit attempt on the 31st.

Gavin Bates latest (May 28) said he has decided to go for it on his own: "Late tonight he is going to head for S Col in one go! From there he'll wait for few hours and go for summit. This runs against what other teams seem to be doing so it's a huge decision. He says if this doesn't work his expedition ends."

North side: 30/31

On the north side, the 7-summit club aim to summit on May 30/May 31. IAF have moved up as well, for the same date. Jagged Globe are looking at around 1/2/3 June. Jamie/Duncan, planning for 30. Himex, Jean Pavillard, Monica (super mom) and others are holding in ABC, sorting out oxygen and gearing for push.

ExWeb quick links straight to expeditions reports:

Adventure Consultants | Everest Traverse’s dispatches | Singapore Mountaineers w/o O2 | Jim Williams’ Exploradus dispatches | Jagged Globe dispatches | 7 Summits/Harry Kikstra’s dispatches | DCXP | Everest Vitesse 2005 (Italian) | Project Himalaya | Singapore NUS Centennial expedition´s reports | Jean Pavilliard and Monica Kalodzi’s dispatches | Aud and Sigrid | Gavin Bates | Czech Expedition - Hornbein Couloir | Alpine Ascents Cybercasts |

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