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Everest summit push: Climbers delayed
May 15, 2004 00: 05 EST
The climbers are delayed, probably due to the task of fixing ropes. It's already around 10.00 am local time. Climbers usually reach the summit between 8-11 am. The deadline is 2 pm. If climbers notice that they won't reach the summit by then, the rule is to turn around.
The climbers should have reached the South Summit by now and are most probably working the Knife Ridge or even higher. It's 30 minutes to 2 hours to the summit from here, depending on the work of fixing ropes.
The South Summit, around one hour from true summit, is also the turning point for many expeditions. Only here the true summit of Everest is exposed enough to allow an evaluation of the summit wind. The climb can be perfectly still up to that point, but turn around the corner of the South Summit and the summit can prove very windy - the later in the morning the greater the risk.
The Chilean teams webmaster expected a new phone call from his team some hours ago, hopefully from around the South Summit, but there are no news of it yet.
The ExWeb TV video of the route clearly shows the Knife Ridge and Hillary Step where the climbers should be right now, if they haven't turned around.
The Chilean team is split into three groups of three. Team one is Ernesto Olivares Miranda, Sherpa Angi and Sherpa Rama.
Team 2 is Andrónico Luksic Craig, Misael Alvial Cid and Sherpa Alden.
Team 3 is Annabelle Bond, Kiko, and Sherpa Shulding.
There is also a small group of commercial clients and guides heading up. The commercial outfits size is not known.
South Summit
A ridge lay ahead, and just above you, not far at all, is the South Summit. You begin to enjoy the view, and the possibility of success. Finally, you step up onto the small plateau of the South Summit, and there - just around the corner - is the Everest summit itself!
You have watched it so many times from the distance, and suddenly it is so strangely close. Just right there, only 95 meters / 310 ft away. You can almost touch the white tail of snow.
When you reach the South Summit you are just a couple of hours from your dream come true.
The Knife Ridge
But there is one more obstacle in your way. The Knife Ridge. You will grasp your breath upon seeing it. It is steep and looks truly nasty. The ridge towers almost freely over Nepal and Tibet, it’s sharp and very steep. Hillary Step is in the middle somewhere, a rock climb in the sky.
You step onto the ridge via a small, half open tunnel from South Summit. You climb with your crampons at a sharp, crooked angle towards the side of the ridge. Occasionally, the snow gives way and you slide down for a hairy second. This is not a place to climb without fixing ropes. Clip in carefully, focus on each step and keep moving.
The Hillary Step
The Hillary step - although very exposed at parts, the climb is fast and feels safe, given the conditions. The danger is to get tangled in the ropes. Bring a good knife. Check the ropes well for strength.
After the step, you will spot white, strange wave-formations of frozen snow pointing out from the summit. Keep climbing towards them. This section is usually unroped, yet not too steep. Still, be careful and use your axe. You might eagerly look for the summit now, yet all you’ll see is a white edge on the horizon. You will not know how far you have left and feel frustrated and tired.
Then you reach another white edge, but this time – it doesn’t continue. Behind it, there is instead a slope down. You are peeking down at the North side of Everest. You have reached the summit, friend."
Image of the Himalayan peaks surrounding the climbers right now, ExWeb files.
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