Everest speed record over - Bruno stops at 8200m after 16h climb|
Jun 3, 2005 19: 04 EST
Bad news, Bruno abandoned at about 8200 m close to C3 after 16 hours of climbing. What a pity. The other mountain guides go on toward the summit.
Bruno reached C2 at 7700 m after 10h32 from the departure. He is in good conditions and the weather is fine.
Previously Published Jun 3, 2005 11: 09 EST
Timetable till now: Bruno Brunod left BC at 11.00 am Nepal Time (7.15 am Italian time). After 4h10 arrived at ABC. Started from ABC after lunch at 4h42. At 6h37 arrived at C1 and started again at 7h23 after a break.
The original record attempt time table from the team
- At Base Camp, Antonio and Luigi will give the starting signal to Bruno at around 9:00 a.m. Adriano, at ABC, will help Bruno and coordinate all of the expedition members positioned at the high camps over radio.
- Sergio and Pietro will be at Camp 1 (7,000 m.); the latter, after Bruno’s passage, will climb to Camp 2 in order to be ready make his own attempt at the summit in the following days.
- At around 21:30 a.m. Bruno should reach Camp 2 at 7,800 m. Rudi and Claudio along with a Sherpa will be there to help.
- Just as a safety measure, the Sherpa will follow Bruno up to Camp 3, while Rudi and Claudio will leave that morning for Camp 3; they will attempt the summit without oxygen on the day after Bruno’s record.
- Claudio B., Christian, Stefano and three Sherpas will be waiting at Camp 3 (8,300 m.).
- Depending on the physical conditions of each guide, one of them will wait for Bruno’s passage during the night and only after this point he may climb towards the summit with oxygen.
- Bruno will also be accompanied by a Sherpa along the route towards the summit. The other two guides, together with Sherpas and oxygen, will precede Bruno in order to be ready for his passage respectively at the Second Step (8,600 m.) and on the summit (8,850 m.)
- Bruno’s arrival at the summit is estimated for around 9:00 a.m. As a precaution, Bruno will be aided by at least two Sherpas and a guide during his descent to Camp 3. After that, he will continue his downhill run for the record accomplishment.
- Weather forecast is not very good for a record attempt but we cannot wait longer. No sign of perfect day with no wind and blue sky. So we decide for the window of 3rd and 4th of June and we hope not to have too much wind and clouds and showers.
- The record will be proved with satellite phone sending GPS waypoints. The mountain guides and Sherpas will take pictures as well as video movie along the route. The liaison officer know about the aim of our expedition so no doubts can arise after the record.
The current Everest speed record (without oxygen) is Marc Batard (no O2): 22 hrs 29 min, Oct 5, 1990.
The current Everest speed record (with oxygen) is Pemba Dorjie's 8 hour and 10 minute ascent of Mt. Everest South side on May 21st, 2004. Pemba started at 6 P.M. on 20th May 2004 and reached the summit at 02.10 A.M. on 21st May 2004 according to the Nepali Ministry of Tourism.
Everest speed ascent history
Oct 5, 1990, Marc Batard (no O2): 22 hrs 29 min
Oct 17, 1998, Kaji Sherpa (with O2): 20 hrs 24 min
May 21, 2000, Babu Chiri Sherpa (with O2): 16 hrs 56 min
May 23, 2003, Pemba Dorjie Sherpa (with O2): 12 hrs and 45 min
May 26, 2003, Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa (with O2): 10 hrs 56 min
May 21, 2004, Pemba Dorjie Sherpa (with O2): 8 hrs 10 min
Image courtesy of Progettomontagna.com.