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Everest daily wrap up: kickin back for the weekend
Apr 23, 2004 11: 24 EST
Snow fall is forecasted for the weekend; a naturally good timing since many of the teams will be taking in some rest days during their acclimatization process.
Everest Weather
Saturday through Monday there will be a minor southwesterly jet over northeastern India and Bhutan but probably not over Everest. Saturday wind speeds on the summit will be southwest 15-20 m/s, and could be up to 25 m/s. Weakening from Monday to only 5 m/s. During Wednesday increasing westerly wind to 10-15 m/s. A low over Tibet will cause widespread precipitation over Everest on Saturday. From Sunday the low weakens but there will still be a risk of showers for the rest of the week.
Everest North: The Col of the wild
The Italian Everest/K2 team parties hardy. Happy birthday to Soro Dorotei who turned 53 today! In the next few days a new group of researchers should be joining the team and, in the meantime, mountaineers will start setting up Camp1 at the North Col and Camp 2 at 7800 m.
Patrick Bernier is back in BC with a ‘small’ cough. “If the temperature allows it we will head to ABC on Monday, and then on to the Northern Col. We are happy to be in BC because bad weather is expected for the weekend, according to data I receive from AdventureWeather.”
Randi Skaug, one of two Norwegian women on Everest, expects to reach the North Col camp by the weekend. She has been in ABC for about a week, acclimatizing, and will sleep at the next camp if the team feels they are ready for that altitude. The other Norwegian participant of the expedition, Truls Evensen had to return to BC today due to a cold.
Russian Adventure team’s ‘other’ American. Marshall Ulrich’s wife Heather reports; “I just received a call, via satellite phone, from Marshall at ABC. He reports that he's 'feeling great' and as scheduled, the team left BC on Wednesday and headed up to Intermediate ABC, where they spent the night. This is the highest altitude to date that Marshall has slept.
Everest South: Some back in BC for the weekend
This is our preferred schedule for acclimatizing on Everest. Trek to BC 10 days. Arrival BC April 1. Climbing C1 April 7. Back to BC April 8. Climbing C2 April 11. Back to BC April 13. Climbing C2 April 17. Climbing C3 April 19. Back to BC April 20. Trekking down April 21. Back to BC April 26. 1st summit attempt May 1-7. Trekking down May 7-12. Back in BC May 13. Last summit attempts May 16-30.
This schedule allows plenty of time for upcoming illnesses and rest in the valley whilst climbing slowly. In addition, it provides for 2-3 summit attempts. It requires that you reach BC early and leave late. It also requires the Icefall and other fixed rope preparations to be done in time.
Alpine Ascents moved up the Western Cwm to Camp 2. “It took us a little over 5 hours to make the journey. The morning started out clear but by the time we arrived it was snowing steadily. We will spend the next few days exploring the route to Camp 3.”
A little rest and relaxation. Many of the teams will be resting over the weekend, some at high altitude and others back down in BC. Adventure Consultants has sent out a dispatch with photos of the team members, The Mexican/Canadian team has uploaded some great shots of the climb to C2 and most of the others are just taking it easy after a hard week of climbing.
Other Mountains: Bad weather, bad eyes, and bad ass
”I am mad as hell and extremely disappointed.” After consulting a Dutch eye specialist Joost will not be going for the summit of Cho Oyu . Going higher again means a risk of lasting vision damage. What happened? “I seem to have developed a High Altitude Retinal Hemorrhage. Simply said, some small veins within my eye have burst because of low air pressure. In itself, this is not harmful. But the bursts occurred in the center of the eye.
From now on I will support Greg during his second attempt to 8201 m. He will attempt to ski from the summit on the 28th. I'm convinced that he has a very good shot at it and I will help him where I can to make the expedition a big success.”
Jannu North Face hung up the portaledge at 7000m. However, the guys had no time to set it correctly due to bad weather. There was a heavy snow-fall and a strong wind. All night the guys struggled against the avalanches falling from the wall. It is more reasonable for them to hold out in BC till the bad weather is over, but it is a big problem to descend now because of avalanches.
“We hung out the red flag of the proletariat in commemoration of Lenin's Birthday." They were working on the route while singing the words ‘freedom of speech: friendly or in a fit of temper. Remember Ilyich’. And then, having made the sign of the cross, they whispered ‘When Lenin took over he forbade religion, destroyed all the churches, and murdered all the priests.’
British Services Makalu left intermediate camp and set out on the ridge to continue fixing rope where they left off yesterday. “The temperatures were extremely cold; down to about -30C with wind chill. After fixing about 300 meters of rope to the saddle before Peak 3, the pair had to return to the tent to warm their toes. As the weather deteriorated, they then beat a hasty retreat down the fixed ropes to Camp 1 and then down to BC, where they will have a well earned rest period.”
Montagna.org | Patrick Bernier | Randi Skaug | Alpine Ascents | Mountain.ru | British Makalu | Ski8000 | RussianClimb.com | Adventure Consultants | Mexican Canadian
Image of climbers descending through the Valley of Silence courtesy of Everest2004.ca.
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2004
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