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Everest daily wrap up: Tons of summits more teams making the push
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May 18, 2004 09: 39 EST
This past weekend was insane. Correspondents from all over the world were reporting in to HQ on success and failure on the top of the world. Be sure to check out all of the exciting stories and the preliminary summit table here

The big news today is the successful summit of Apa Sherpa who just bagged his 14th summit of Everest. Then there is the mBank Annapurna team who are making their last summit push, nearby are Simone Moro and Denis Urubko who are making quick progress with their route.

And finally there was the urgent report from the Russian North Face team about the flying oxygen bottles hurled from the summit.

Everest Weather

Weather is looking good. Have you ever seen a weather forecast on Everest with the word CALM at summit level? But, what is the scoop on precipitation? We talked to all mets today and also with Monsoon forecasters in India:

A. The Monsoon is 5-6 days early this year and has already formed Friday/Saturday and started to move.

B. There is a typical pre/early monsoon depression over northern Bay of Bengal. It's growing stronger mid-week and moving East. Eastern Himalaya and Everest will not be hit by the high winds, but will see increased precipitation.

C. The increased precipitation will occur mainly on lower altitudes! It will be better weather higher up and on levels above 7500 meter mostly dry weather is expected.

D. When will the Monsoon hit Everest? Normally, the monsoon hits Everest around June 10, so even if it was 6 days early, late summits shouldn't be a problem.

Everest North:

Russian Central North Face expedition reached 8270m on Friday. Today reports came in from the team that two empty oxygen bottles came flying down the North Face, tossed away by a mindless climber. See separate story

Italian Everest/K2 have returned to ABC after reaching 8600m yesterday. Check out the very cool map of the North route.

Russian Adventure team. Abramov reports; “In the third camp at 8300m there are climbers from some expeditions. We are planning to climb for the summit from 22nd till 25th of May. We are going to ascend without taking risks.” They are in BC.

Adventure Peaks: Tom and Ben Clowes report that the team in in ABC, heading to the North Col tomorrow.

Bulgarian: The team is dispersed between BC and Camp 1.

Dijmarescu and Lhakpa began their summit climb today, they hope to reach the top on May 20th.

Dutch Paragliders: They reached Camp 2 today on their push for the summit.

Patrick Bernier: He is in BC right now and is holding out for better weather. He reports that half the team is making their summit push.

Greek North are making their summit push today!

Norwegian ladies Randi’s last report from May 12th had her at the North Col. Cecilie’s report from May 15th had her in ABC. Randi and Cecilie stand to be the first Norwegian women on top of Everest.

Dan Lochner has begun his summit push. He is aiming for 17th through the 20th. Dan is on his way to possibly become the youngest person to complete the seven summits, if he also bags Vinson (Antarctica) later this year.

Everest South:

Nawang Sherpa and team McMillan reached the summit on Sunday May 16th, 7:55am Nepali time. Tom McMillan, Nima Tashi Sherpa, Pem Dorjee Sherpa, Nawang Sherpa, Nima Gombu Sherpa.

Mex/Can: Members of the team reached the summit on Sunday May 16th around 11am Nepali time. Martin Boileau, Luis Espinoza, Alejandro Ochoa.

Khoo Swee (no os) turned around before reaching the summit.

Andres Delgado (no os) turned around before the summit.

RAF Ted Atkins: He reached the summit in the early hours of Sunday May 16th.

Irish Everest are making their summit push this evening.

Annabelle Bond and the Chilean team reached the summit on Saturday May 15th around 1:00pm Nepali time.

Greek South: Members began to arrive at the summit on Sunday May 16th. Georgios Voutiropoulos, Pema Tshiring Sherpa, Panagiotis Kotronaros, Mike Styllas, Nawang Pasang Sherpa, Tshering Tashi Sherpa, Tashi Lakpa Sherpa, Mingma Sherpa, Pavlos Tsiantos.

Alpine Ascents: The team is heading out this evening/early morning from BC on their final climb.
Adventure Consultants have arrived back in BC from Pheriche.

Jagged Globe reached the summit on Saturday May 15th. Clive Bruce Jones, Kenton Edward Cool, Pema Tshiring Sherpa, Pema Nurbu Sherpa.

IMG: The team reached the summit on Saturday May 15th. Daniel Barter, Rauno Hoglin, Brien Sheddy, Jason Tanguay, Kevin Flynn, Karma Rita Sherpa, Mingma Tshering Sherpa.

Mountain Madness Gene Rehfeld, Murray Rice, Willie Benegas, Undi Sherpa, and Mingma Sherpa reached the summit this morning, Monday May 17th.

Over Everest are stuck in the valley because of heavy fog.

Ed Viesturs and the IMAX team reached the summit today. David Breashears, Lhakpa Gyalje Sherpa, Ed Viestures, Vekka Gustafsson, Jimmy Chin, Amy Bullard, Rob Schauer, Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa, Kame Sherpa, Da Sonam Sherpa , Da Jangbu Sherpa, Dawa Tenzing Sherpa.


North Face team reports some highly technical climbing. They have set the portaledge at 7400m.


Simone and Denis: "We are in camp II at 5900 m. Tomorrow we will climb to camp III. We are happy to here from the success from our friends: Nives, Romano and Luca (Lhotse), Inaki Ochoa, Joby Ogwyn and Alex (Makalu) and Ed Viesturs (Everest).”

Piotr and the mBank expedition They have left BC to make one final attempt at the summit.


Argentineans summited on Friday May 14th.

Cho Oyu:

Project himalaya with Jamie McGuiness reached the summit on Friday.

Belarus Cho Oyu: On May, 8 at 2.00 p.m. local time 3 participants of the Belarus expedition Michael Melnikov, Victor Lutov and Anatoly Lutov summited Cho Oyu. The head of the expedition Vladimir Telpuk ascended up to 7800m.

Kharkov-350 expeditionThe two-man team Sergey Bershov and Igor Svergun summited Cho Oyu on the evening of the 15th. The ascent happened in bad weather conditions.


Iñaki Ochoa de Olza, from the Lorpen-Diario de Navarra expedition, reached the summit on Sunday with Joby Ogwyn, the German Peter Guggemos, the Basque Alex Txikon, Ecuadorian Ivan Vallejo, and the Navarrese Ricardo Valencia.

Kazakh: 7 May, 2004 Kazakhstan Makalu Expedition: Camp 3 was installed at 7400 m.

British Services: The team has been halted by bad weather. They have regrouped and are awaiting a break in the winds.

Irish Everest | Greek Everest | Dan Lochner | Russian North Face | Russian News | Italian Everest/K2 | Tom and Ben Clowes | Irish Everest | Adventure Peaks | Dutch Paragliders | Mexican/Canadian | Alpine Ascents | Alpine Ascents | Russian Adventure Team | Patrick Bernier | Team McMillan | HimEx | Khoo Swee | RAF Ted Atkins | Annabelle Bond | Jagged Globe | Mountain Madness | Ed Viesturs | British Services | Project Himalaya

Image of Jamie McGuiness, in the black face mask with Dawa, Namgyal on the summit of Cho Oyu, courtesy of Jamie.

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Special mention:

Edurne Pasaban
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Pavel Rezvoy

Nawang Sherpa

The Spirit of Adventure

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