Everest daily wrap up: Summit bids announced for weekend
May 12, 2004 14: 47 EST
A period of good weather is predicted later this weekend, prompting several teams to announce summit bids. It's not exactly a window though, more of some possibly nice conditions. Already aiming for the summit this week are Ted Atkins, Jamie McGuiness (on Cho Oyu), Greek North, Nawang Sherpa, the Mexican/Canadian's, and Khoo Swee. Timing is especially important now, so as not to miss out on the weather but also avoid congestion on the high altitude ropes.
Everest Weather
We have had extra talks with the met's at SMHI this morning. They are fairly confident that the weather condition will be favorable for summit attempts late this week and early next week.
Everest North:
Russian North face Victor Kozlov reports; “The 3rd tent set at 7800m. Alexey Bukinitch will probably leave the expedition. He is young and cannot work at this altitude. Shabaline's group will start fixing the difficult bottom part of the bastion from 8000m. Our success mostly depends on Shabaline's group.”
Italian Everest/K2 moves up to ABC with all of their tech. They plan to make a summit bid in the next week.
Dijmarescu and Lhakpa The Hartford Courant reports that the Connecticut team, now down to 6 climbers, are between ABC and BC. They are ‘intent’ on making a summit push later this month.
Greek North plan summit day for this Saturday.
Everest South:
Khoo Swee is back in BC and planning to make the summit on Monday. See separate story
Irish Everest are resting in Dingboche. See separate story
Mountain Madness is heading up tomorrow
morning. "This morning while having breakfast there was lots of anticipation building amongst the team, fretting over the unknown territory past C3. "The unknown is what makes me the most nervous for what is to come", Gene said. Willie's response was mainly, "you three are as ready as you could ever be. The rest is out of your hands except the one problem is you are thinking too much!"
Greek South The Hartford Courant also reports that a Chinese production crew came into BC with an actress in a wedding dress ready to shoot a commercial. “She was the mountain's best-dressed bride when she bounced into Base Camp in a Nissan Pathfinder, stepped out in front of Mount Everest and promptly vomited all over the glacial moraine.” The film crew managed to convince a woman on the Greek team to don the wedding dress and began filming her instead.
Over Everest is in Namche Bazaar.
Cho Oyu:
Jamie McGuiness and team will probably establish C3 (7500m) today with a view to summitting Thursday or Friday.
In The News:
18 killed in Nepal guerilla attacks
Russian North Face | Italian Everest/K2 | Dijmarescu and Lhakpa (Hartford Courant) | Hellas Everest | Irish Everest | Khoo Swee | Jamie McGuiness | Nepal news (BBC)
Image of climbers heading up to Camp 3 courtesy of daretodream.com.
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