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Everest daily wrap up: Storm approaching! Hunkering down in BC
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Apr 28, 2004 11: 33 EST
A storm is approaching Everest, expected to hit this weekend. Hurricane force winds are forecasted. Most teams are back in the relative safety of BC, the rest will most likely be making their way back down.

Everest Weather

Friday a westerly jet will be approaching the area. From Saturday on we will have a westerly jet over northern India and Nepal with the core over Everest. At the summit a West-southwest wind of 10-15 m/s will increase from Saturday to hurricane force winds of 35-40 m/s. A weak upper ridge will pass over Thursday through Friday, and there will be a few isolated showers. It will be followed on Saturday by a trough with more frequent precipitation. Dry conditions will be present for next week.

Everest North: At that altitude brain functions are killed, glad to back in BC

Abramov; “It is snowing heavily like in the fairy tales of Gogol. There are lonely lights on the other side of the skree field. Coming down the mountain one idea always occurs ‘Why have I been at 6500m for so long?’ At that altitude brain functions are killed, all desire is gone and even thoughts about woman are sluggish.

On my way down to BC it was snowing heavily, it took four long hours of loosing and finding the path again and again. I could hardly find our camp in the boundless field of EBC. It has been snowing all day at BC. We even heard that it was downpouring all day in Katmandu. Early monsoon? I don’t believe it! It was the same in 2000 but when the full moon appeared in the sky all the climbers were able to ascend to the summit. This year the full moon arrives in the beginning of May. I hope to God that we will be successful.

The two Italians in our team decided to hold off their departure and make the attempt again. According our plan the team will ascend to ABC the day after tomorrow.”

His blood O2 level is better than yours. Marshall Ulrich, also with the Russian Adventure team, descended to BC safely and in one shot from high camp 1. He has been resting in BC since Monday and reports feeling great. His pulse ox continues to be the highest on the team whenever they measure it - yesterday it was 88, an almost normal reading for sea level.

The plan is for the team to go to IBC today, then on to ABC where they will spend a couple of days. Then, on to High Camp 1 and possibly on May 2, if weather is good, Marshall and Dmitry will continue on to High Camp 2.

The first images from K2 2004 at ABC arrive. The camp was installed yesterday a little under the North Col. Soro Dorotei and Silvio Mondinelli will sleep there in order to install camp at 7600 tomorrow.

Kevin diagnosed with pleurisy. This the latest from Adventure Peaks: “Kevin Donovan has sadly had to leave BC today to return to Kathmandu (he'll arrive there Thursday) as he has been diagnosed by another team’s doctor with pleurisy.

The team is currently descending back to BC, Dave will follow to BC tomorrow as he has stayed behind to co ordinate with our sherpas the setting up of all our remaining camps ensuring that whilst the team are resting at BC the next 7 to 10 days waiting for the weather window, that when it does arrive, everything is in place in order to allow their summit bid to take place.
The team will now begin to monitor the weather reports that are been emailed to BC & ABC, looking for that spell when the winds will die down.”

Calling from the North Pole to Everest. The Dutch paragliding team is currently resting in BC letting the extra oxygen in the air rejuvenate them back to peak health. “You have much more air and also energy.”

Marc Cornelissen just called in to Everest BC and spoke to his friends in the Dutch camp, announcing his arrival at the North Pole (see yesterday's story on thepoles.com). Marc and Wilco went to the North and South Poles together some years back.

All is well, even if nothing is easy Patrick Bernier arrived yesterday with Ken, Troy and Garth, who is recovering from pulmonary edema. “Thursday we will climb to the Northern Col. All is well, even if nothing is easy, that is how it is on Mount Everest.”

Everest South: When making jumps in sleeping at altitude the name of the game is to take it slowly.

Cwm, a Welsh term for valley From Adventure Consultants; “Today we moved up the highly picturesque Western Cwm to Camp 2. The Western Cwm, a Welsh term for valley, is bordered by Everest to the north, Lhotse to the east and Nuptse to the south. The beautiful morning gave us our first close up views of the impressive and imposing South West Face of Everest. Still a long way to go! We also had our first clear views of the route to Camp 3 up the Lhotse Face.

When making jumps in sleeping at altitude the name of the game is to take it slowly. We had plenty of breaks for drinks and photos. Perhaps foremost in folks memories about today is the incredible temperature contrast we were dealing with. Highs of 110F / 40C contrasted with horizontal falling snow in the afternoon and the need to don down clothing as the evening approached.

Our camp 2 is one of comparative luxury thanks to the hard work of our Sherpa Staff. We have a dinning tent complete with tables and chairs which offers a welcome break to prolonged sitting in our smaller two person sleep tents.

Tomorrow the plan is to spend a second night at camp 2. We will also undertake a short acclimatization walk to the base of the Lhotse Face to further stimulate altitude blood chemistry changes.”

Ed Viesturs; “We do not have any definite summit plans yet: We got up quite early and left camp around 6:30 in the morning, not only to get down here safely through the ice falls, but we also had some filming to do on the decent. That's part of what we have to account for here, we can’t just run up and down like normal climbers. It typically takes twice the time to go up or down, simply because we are stopping so often to shoot scenes. It would be nice to have some good weather up high so that the other groups can fix rope to Camp 4. Once those ropes are in, we will start carrying our loads to supply Camp 4 with oxygen, tents, stoves and fuel.

We do not have any definite summit plans yet. We just want to go up and acclimatize, and film more before we make a definite decision.”

Mountain.ru | Marshall Ulrich | Montagna.org | Adventure Peaks | Dutch paragliders | Ed Viesturs | Adventure Consultants

Image of Russian Adventure Team's BC setup courtesy of Mountain.ru.
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