Everest daily wrap-up May 15, 2003
10:28 a.m. EDT May 15, 2003
Teams are mobilizing or getting ready to mobilize on both sides of Everest. The 19th,20th, and 21st are looking to be popular dates for the south side. A contingent of teams’ sherpas have united to set ropes to the top. On the North, the large Chinese team, which has been on the forefront all season is in ABC, 6500m, and did not head up as intended because of weather.
Makalu was summited yesterday by four very strong climbers – they now have a combined 43, 8000m summits between them. Unfortunately, just following the death on Baruntse sevearl days ago, another climber has died – this time on Cho Oyu. The cause of the death is not known yet.
Summit winds: West-southwest 25-30 m/s. From Saturday southwest, slowly decreasing to 20-25 m/s. At lower levels (5-6000 m) 10-15 m/s in the beginning, then decreasing wind On Friday probably some precipitation (snow showers), but already from Saturday dry air moves to ME with wind speeds of 5-8 m/s. Sunday local precipitation (snow showers) again. Monday and Tuesday probably dry weather. There is still no monsoon visible over the Bay of Bengal.
The Chinese are down in ABC, 6500m Poor weather conditions have temporarily postponed their summit push.
The Russian Adventure team is sitting tight and waiting to pounce. Some climbers are in ABC while others spent the night at Camp II, 7500m, having to hold the tent up with their bodies. They are getting a bit frustrated with their plans getting spoiled constantly.
Himex planned on heading up to ABC yesterday. Their sherpas have been working high on the mountain to fix and prepare their upper camps for the summit push.
The Toyota Global Extremes “Survivor” show has headed up to towards ABC for their summit push.
The South Africans are still chilling in base camp. They’re making the rounds to other teams trying to keep occupied while waiting.
Adventures International is getting ready to head up. They are planning on the 21st for a summit date, to avoid the expected crowds of the 19th/20th. Scott reports 8 sherpas from 7 teams will be fixing ropes up high.
The Italian Speed expedition is in Camp II, 6500m, going for Camp III, 7300m, acclimatizing.
The French 50 team is now aiming for a 20th and 22nd summit in two groups. They have to leave base camp the morning of May 25th, so time is running short for them.
Today or tomorrow the German Bad Heilbrunner team will be going for their summit push. They too are shooting for the 19/21 window.
Pat Falvey’s Irish team will take off tomorrow for their summit push. They report that some climbers from other teams have been leaving for home already. One expedition lost 10 climbers because of a disagreement.
Charlie Wittmack is sitting tight in BC. His sherpas should be back in base camp today from visiting their families down valley He thinks that the Americans in base camp, especially one team in particular haven’t been the nicest – barking at trekkers, not sharing weather reports, etc. . .
Jagged Globe has formed an alliance with several other teams - the Irish, Indian, French, and Korean to fix the ropes to the summit. They predict as many as 70 climbers might be going for the summit at once.
Team Miura is above it all. Sitting pretty in Camp II, they have postponed their summit attempt for a couple of days and are now aiming for the 19th. The crew of three spends their time writing letters and relaxing.
Adventures International's two Lhotse climbers are in Camp II.They are hoping to hit the summit on the 19th. The two climbers are supported by three sherpas.
A climber from the French 50 expedition is back down in BC after not making Lhotse.
The Indian/Nepali Army team that put 12 climbers on the summit of Lhotse is back down in base camp now.
Babanov and Suviga are going down valley to rest and recover before heading back up to give the unclimbed Nuptse East another shot.
The Polish mBank Manaslu planned going for a summit push around now.
An Australian climber has died on Cho Oyu recently. The cause of death is not entirely known, although it was reported that he had fallen ill at some point.
Chinese Sohu team (in Chinese)
South African Discovery
Russian Adventure Team
Pat Falvey’s Irish Everest
Northern Irish Everest
French 50 (translated)
Irish Everset 2003
Toyota Global Extremes
Italian speed (translated)
German Bad Heilbrunner
Polish Manaslu (in Polish)
Everest in the News
Climbing Everest 50 years on: Day Six – BBC, UK
Fifty years on, Everest conquered but now subdued - Reuters
Creepy Everest arifacts – Slate
First American to Everset’s summit is returning to base camp – The Ledger