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Everest daily wrap-up May 13, 2003
12:07 p.m. EDT May 13, 2003
Two South Side teams are currently on their summit attempt. One is confirmed to be in Camp II, 6500m, and the other team planned on making Camp II today. There are, however, no ropes fixed as of yet above the South Col, 7900m. The Indian Army expedition agreed to do this in April’s expedition leader meeting, however, this past weekend aborted their Everest summit attempt and the ropes weren't set.

This morning climbers from the Army expedition summited Lhotse. This follows Saturday’s Lhotse summit by the Japanese, and Sunday’s Lhotse summit by a Korean team. All of these summits have been announced by Nepal’s Ministry of Tourism.

On Manaslu, the Polish and American teams are on the mountain and getting ready for a summit push.

Weather

Summit wind speeds: West-southwest 30-40 m/s. From Friday southwest, southwesterly winds decreasing to 25-30 m/s. At lower levels (5-6000 m) mostly weak winds, 5-10 m/s, but at times 10-15 m/s due to passing troughs.
A trough will pass during Wednesday-Thursday with rather moist weather with snow showers. At the end of the week heavy precipitation south and southeast of ME due to a deep low over India - this also gives moist conditions with snow showers in the Mount Everest region.


Everest North

The Chinese were in ABC, 6500m today and had an international meeting to discuss their summit bid, and fixing ropes.

The Russian Adventure team attempted to make Camp II, 7500m, but turned around with “frozen noses.” Some team members are in ABC, while others are spending the night at Camp I, North Col, 7000m. The Russians are going for a summit attempt around the 17th or 18th.

The Generations on Everest team is planning on a summit attempt around the 16th – 20th of May. Expedition member Jess Roskelley, 20 years old, is trying to be the youngest American to summit Everest.

Oxygen sponsorship needed! The Northern Irish have issued a request for Oxygen sponsorship – they will need approximately 10,000 USD to outfit themselves with O2, otherwise they will probably be going without.


Everest South

The Canadian Firefighter’s are on a tight schedule. The team is leaving base camp on the 21st, and as of their most recent dispatch (May 7), they are aiming to make the summit on the 15th and 18th.

Adventures International took a trek up to Kala Pattar today. It’s a 5000m trekking peak near Everest that offers some great views. Scott Woolums sent back some fresh summit video from this morning. The Everest team plans on leaving in a couple of days for their summit push.

The German Bad Heilbrunner team is in Camp II, 6500m, and are trying to decide whether or not to continue on their summit bid. They would have to break trail and fix ropes above the South Col, 7900m, themselves. The team reports weather this morning was better than expected.

The French 50 team is down in base camp and planning on leaving the 19th for their summit bid – hoping to make the top around the 20th – 22nd. On their last descent from Camp II, one climber snowboarded and another tele-skied part of the way down to Camp I.

Adventure Consultants is down in BC and testing their oxygen rigs. Alan Arnette, a climber on the expedition had a bad, bad, cough on his last trip up to Camp III, 7300m. Fortunately a doctor back down in base camp found no fluid in his lungs and gave him the OK.

Pat Falvey’s Irish team is back in base camp and waiting for a chance to go for the summit.

Charlie Wittmack won’t be leaving for the summit before the 15th. He and several other climbers are climbing with logistical and Sherpa support from a trekking agency. Because of the bad weather, the Sherpas have gone down for a rest/visit to home and will be back on the 15th and possibly start their summit attempt.

The South Africans are hoping to leave tomorrow for their summit push. All of the climbers are acclimatized and ready for the push.

Jagged Globe is in base camp and waiting for a summit opportunity.


Lhotse

The ministry has confirmed that a Korean team summited Lhotse on Sunday and climbers on the Nepali/Indian Army team summited this morning.


Baruntse

A British climber died from a fall this past weekend on Baruntse.


Manaslu

The Polish mBank Manaslu team is in Camp II, planning on ascending to Camp III tomorrow, and then will be going for a possible summit push with climbers on an American team.


Dispatches:

Chinese Sohu team (in Chinese)
Adventures International
AdventureWeather.com
South African Discovery
Bad Heilbrunner Everest
Russian Adventure Team
Pat Falvey’s Irish Everest
Russian Adventure team
Generations on Everest
Northern Irish Everest
Canadian Firefighters
French 50 (translated)
Adventure Consultants
Alan Arnette’s website
Charlie Wittmack’s website
Jagged Globe


Everest in the News

Everest team wait on weather – News24 South Africa
Francis sets his sights on Everest – News Shopper, UK
British climber falls off Himalayan peak – Ananova, UK







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