Everest daily wrap up: Jannu, summits, and the North Face|
May 27, 2004 16: 16 EST
"I'm trying to pretend I'm in the sun on El Cap at Yosemite, but I can't feel any of my toes..."
That's right, El Cap at almost 8000m, over and over again.
The Jannu story sure got picked up today, not just by WetAssChronicles, who added the image caption. (WAC is btw rated among the top blogs in the world by Google so be sure to check it out. It's a favorite.)
Check the Jannu story again too, human error had some of the pics removed in the first 6 hours of this morning. The pics are now back. This is the what the team wrote us today: "The climb has been beyond the humanly possible. The team was 9 experienced and strong climbers. And yet the size of this challenge forced them beyond the limit. Today we have 6 injured climbers: Three with concussions, one with a broken rib, one with pulmonary, and one with bloodshot eyes. Costly!" - We hear ya, guys.
Everest window - hello is anybody up there?
Everest has had an astonishing season. Everyone planned for late summits this year, but now, with the usual window around the corner - nobody is around!
"Winds near the Summits will be near 15 m/s and ease to less than 10 m/s by this afternoon. A weak upper level trough will be over the ME area today before lifting by the weekend putting Everest in a transition period. This will help to keep the winds fairly light throughout the Mountain."
The last summits
The good guys arrived last - and once again Adventure Consultants team carried Rob's torch to the summit of Mount Everest in this season's finale on the Everest South Side. Check out the feature story on this note: "To Rob" on this site.
The weather was reported great all the way to the South Summit. No reports of the true summit yet. The AC team did it in style, too. Mike Roberts turned back with some of the climbers. That's the way it always should be done: One guide in front with the strongest, one guide in the back picking up the weaker climbers. And going back down with them, no matter how good another summit would look in his own resume. Hats off.
Shaunna of the Discovery team fought to the end "Please let me try - I am strong, I know I can do it!" But the wind blew hard that morning and she was called back down. Check their site.
Himex too reported a change of plans: Summits earlier than expected! "Our team was successful in reaching the summit of Mt. Everest on Sunday and Monday, May 23-24, 2004. We had a large group of 23 people summitting on the 23rd and 10 people on the 24th for a total of 33 people to summit from our two teams. The reason for referring to the two teams is that we modified the two original teams into hybrid teams for the summit attempts. Reaching a height of 8,600 meters was Paul Hockey from Australia which is extremely impressive for an individual with one arm! Ian made it up to the ridge before frostbite to his feet turned him back."
Full list of both commercial outfits in the italic info summary below.
The North Face
So that's that, right? Of course not. Because now, the whole world is turned focus to the second historic feat in modern mountaineering - the Everest North Face.
The guys have worked it much like the Jannu team. Rain or shine, and no BS to go with it. "Never quit, never lie, never apologize." Was that Zeb Macahan who said that?
Post expedition reports - to finish in style
"Never explain, never complain" is anyhow the British Royal Family mantra. That's why we wait before publishing post expeditions reports claiming failed summits due to rescues. The rescued don't always agree, see.
And at a first glance, it sure has seemed that the Sherpas has been the guys running around with water bottles to wasted climbers. But we'll see when this is all over...
This is also the reason we like the honest post expedition reports like RAF Ted Atkins today.
And Kho Swee from Singapore: He reached the Balcony (8,415 meters) at 2.45am without oxygen. His explanation to media on turning back?
"He became extremely exhausted and dehydrated. Without wanting to put his life in further danger and finding himself in a situation where he would have to be rescued by others, he decided to turn around.
"I did not want to be on the list of tragedies or injuries."
Asked if he would attempt his feat again, Mr Khoo, resting in Kathmandu, replied: "Right now, I just want to see and hold my six-month-old son and spend some time with my wife and friends in a warm place."
There you go. And now - everyone to the NORTH FACE!
Adventure Consultants summits:
Ang Dorje (his 10th summit!)
Reaching the summit were the following people:
+ 11 Sherpas
+ 5 Sherpas
Image of the Jannu climbers, courtesy of the team.