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Everest daily wrap up: It's all about the weather
image story

May 13, 2004 13: 34 EST
Forecasts predict a period of low winds starting Saturday evening and lasting right up through Monday. Beyond that, it's too early to tell. Teams are taking their chances on the prediction and aim for the summit this weekend and through next week.

Everest Weather

Forecasts predict some of the best pre-monsoon weather we have seen on Everest in 4-5 years. Winds will be low beginning in the evening on Saturday and remain at those levels foe several days, though it is impossible to tell for sure any further ahead than that. Both the American and the European met's have confirmed the wind speeds. There is however a caution for precipitation in the period.

Also Experts from the Indian Meteorological Department confirm that the monsoon will form in one week and begin moving several days later, thus beginning the official Everest weather window. What we are seeing right now could be called a pre-monsoon development. See separate story.

Everest North:

Russian Central North Face Check out their awesome images from the vertical wall. How do they protect themselves from falling rocks up there? Read the separate story to find out.

Italian Everest/K2 Hubert Moroder has left the expedition due to altitude related illness.

Russian Adventure Team Still in Xigur (Shigar).

Adventure Peaks “We are constantly looking at the weather reports that are coming in daily and its looking like the 17th & 18th with even better summit weather on the 20th & 21st.” That’s pretty far ahead to predict accurate weather conditions, but if this pattern holds they’ll be in luck.

Dutch Paragliders In ABC, going for summit on Tuesday the 18th.

Everest South:

Mex/Can team Luis reports that the team will begin their summit push on Saturday. “Andrés and Alexander are going to try without oxygen, but sherpas will have extra oxygen in case of emergency.”

Irish Everest Heading to Camp 2 tomorrow.

Alpine Ascents Back to BC tomorrow.

Adventure Consultants Pheriche

Mountain Madness Heading up today, beginning their summit push.

Ed Viesturs Reported from Camp 2 today. Ed and the IMAX team are aiming for the summit on Saturday.


mBank Annapurna A strategic retreat to BC for a day or so of rest. Read the separate story.


Iñaki Ochoa de Olza, from the Lorpen-Diario de Navarra expedition, has arrived at Camp 1 (6.550 m).

British Services Setting Camp 3

In the News:

The Macedonian News Agency reported this morning that a Greek climber was killed by falling rocks after reaching the summit of Everest. This not believed to be accurate, as no team has summated Everest yet this season and the climber was not a listed member of any team. It is more likely that the person killed was in the Everest region, possibly climbing a smaller peak. More information will be posted when it becomes available.

Russian North Face | Italian Everest/K2 | Irish Everest | Adventure Peaks | Dutch Paragliders | Mexican/Canadian | Alpine Ascents | Adventure Consultants | Mountain Madness | Ed Viesturs | British Services

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