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Everest and Himalaya daily wrap-up: Accidents highlight safety concerns
image story

May 3, 2005 20: 38 EST
Everest Base Camp is still buzzing about the recent deaths: Is the increase in the number of climbers leading to a false sense of security, thus giving way to less rigorous safety procedures? Read separate report today, “Everest shows it’s darkest face…”, about the accidents in the last few days.

Good News: Gerfried Göschl summited Shisha Pangma’s main summit this morning. The climbers turned around at central summit, but Gerfried managed to scale the Ridge and reach the true Summit. Special published earlier today.

Summit Push: Silvio Mondinelli’s team is set to make a second summit push on Annapurna tomorrow, while deep snow forced Iñaki Ochoa and team to ditch their summit bid on Dhaulagiri. They plan to give it another shot when the conditions improves.

Everest weather – less wind but snow – jet moving in

The persistent showers on Everest are forecast to linger in the area through Saturday. The winds should stay under 10 m/s (22 mph) during the week. But as the jet stream approaches from the south, winds will increase significantly, possibly exceeding 25 m/s (56 mph) this weekend.

Everest South - more on fatality and news about ropes

"We have currently reviewed our safety practices as well as have had a meeting with our climbing Sherpa staff in regards to our climbing methods and elements of safety.

We will continue to climb in the full spirit of adventure that surrounds extreme mountaineering, forging a great sense of caution and awareness for our Sherpa and climbing teams in regards to the recent events," reported Climb for Cure.

Ropes fixed on Everest South to Camp 4

Adventure Consultants reports: “Today several of our climbing Sherpas climbed from C2 (6400m) to the South Col (7950m) for the second day in a row,” reported team member Mike from Camp 2. “This is truly a marathon effort. The prime cargo was multiple bottles of oxygen; there is satisfaction at seeing the top of the logistical being established. As part of his days work Ang Dorge, our Climbing Sirdar, completed fixing rope from the top of the Geneva Spur to C4.”

Everest North

Norwegian none-O2 climber Jarle Tra is hanging out in BC and reflecting over the fact that you can make up all the plans and strategies you want, but Everest will keep her secrets and make all the choices. You can do nothing but adapt.

Jean Pavillard’s and Monica’s (supermom) final acclimatization

The duo pushed up to Camp 2 at 7,500 m (image), like many others on the last acclimatization push, before heading back down the valley and getting ready for the real thing at end of May.

High-altitude Cocktail of the year: 3 parts Summit Oxygen, 3 parts POISK

Choosing the right (read safe) oxygen system is as problematic as always. Jamie’s team seems to have gone for some reduction of risk by mixing the two major brands.

Jamie (Project Himalaya) reports: “Today we sorted the Summit oxygen, having trouble with fitting the pulse-dose meter on the tanks; they do go on, but not always easily, annoying in such a high-priced system. We discussed various strategies but most involve only one tank for a summit push and so this fitting shouldn't be a problem. Paul, Julian and Moe are using the Summit Oxygen system; Sukhi and the Sherpas are using Poisk, and Jamie is in the middle.”

Adventure Consultants | Jean Pavilliard and Monica Kalodzi’s dispatches | Project Himalaya | Jarle Tra w/o O2 | Climbing for a Cure’s dispatches

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