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Everest North: Why we quit
image story

Sep 21, 2004 13: 01 EST
It's not easy to be the only Everest expedition, with the solitary task of fixing rope and organizing logistics. Here are some details from Werner, this years lonely Everest North side expedition leader:

"The attempt is aborted. Yes you read it right. As you know, Marc and Mark left already. Moreover several people have had physical complaints. In fact only Harry and I were fit to do a summit attempt.

Last we were on 7000 meters. The difficult steep climb between 6400 meters to 7000 went good. That of course makes the aborted expedition especially sour.

On 7000 meters a discussion with the sherpas arose. There was too little rope and the sherpas considered the circumstances too dangerous climb. Last week they had a close call when an avalanche came down. Now they wouldn't advance. Perhaps this a wise decision, considering all circumstances, but we are of course terribly fed up!"

Saturday Werner will write an extended report from an internet cafe in Katmandu. The group will return to the Netherlands probably next week already. Today there were also problems with the yak drivers. Those yak drivers have stolen a pocket knife, solar panel, an oxygen bottle, pots, pans, etc. Werner told them to either give the stuff back, or face a report to the Chinese police. "Almost everything has been against us. But it's good that the entire team now returns safe."

A Dutch expedition attempted Everest from the north side this Fall. Everest north autumn expeditions are rare. The team, with logistics provided by Universal Summit, was to be on the mountain to October 15th.

Universal Summit’s ‘Dutch Chomolungma Expedition 2004’ is a non-profit expedition of low cost. After going for Chogolisa (7665m) in Pakistan this July, 7Summits.com's Harry Kikstra joined the team.
Expedition members: Werner de Jong (leader), Mark Thijssen, Marc Streefkerk, Boris Krielen, Harry Kikstra, Sander Arens, and Ruby Arens-Halfschepel (Base Camp Manager.)

Image Postcard from the team, courtesy the expedition.

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