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Everest North Face - summit push in 3 days?
image story

May 15, 2004 16: 27 EST
The team reached 8270 m this morning. Reports Victor Kozlov:

"The trio Shabaline-Tukhvatullin-Mariev fixed five more pitches at the Bastion yesterday, and today they fixed another three pitches at the difficult rocks.

They'll continue to work the route another 3 days, after that Kuznetsov's team will step up. If Shabaline's team can manage to fix ropes higher up and set the tent at 8400, then Kuznetsov's group will make the summit attempt, weather permitting.

Shabaline's climbers works without supplementary oxygen. Bukinitch won't work at the wall - the doctor doesn't let him - he's too yoing for the high altitude. The weather's fine, but our forecast promises high winds soon."

The most exciting expedition on Everest this spring the Russian Central North Face team.. This is a severe, unclimbed, technical route to the left of the Hornbein/Japanese couloir.

The guys are going straight up, on a clean and lofty face. The technical difficulty of the route along with the extreme altitude makes this one of the most difficult challenges in mountaineering.

The expedition is a Russian dream team. There are previous Everest summiteers, Golden Ice Axe winners, and many, many 8000m veterans. Koshelenko, who just made the first summit of Nuptse East will be on the team as well. The Russians also have a young 22 year old – Alexey Bukinich – Koshelenko pulled for him, and he made the team.

Top image of route courtesy of russianclimb.com compiled by ExWeb.

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