Everest North Face - reached 8400m - almost past the bastion
May 19, 2004 18: 34 EST
The team is nearly past the rock bastion today, only 100 meters to go.
Reports Victor Kozlov:
"Today weather was unstable: it was cloudy and snowing slightly. The group led by Petr Kuznetsov (Kuznetsov - Arhipov - Sokolov - Vinogradsky) descended to spend the night in camp 3 at 7800m. Today they did some great work: they managed to set pitches up to 8400m. On the previous point, 8270m, they made a site just under the tent and hauled up another tent and some gear.
Tomorrow Kuznetsov's group heads up to continue fixing, and to spend the night at 8270m.
Today is Petr Kuznetsov's birthday. We wish him many happy returns!"
The most exciting expedition on Everest this spring the Russian Central North Face team.. This is a severe, unclimbed, technical route to the left of the Hornbein/Japanese couloir.
The guys are going straight up, on a clean and lofty face. The technical difficulty of the route along with the extreme altitude makes this one of the most difficult challenges in mountaineering.
The expedition is a Russian dream team. There are previous Everest summiteers, Golden Ice Axe winners, and many, many 8000m veterans. Koshelenko, who just made the first summit of Nuptse East will be on the team as well. The Russians also have a young 22 year old – Alexey Bukinich – Koshelenko pulled for him, and he made the team.
Image of route courtesy of russianclimb.com compiled by ExWeb.
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