Everest North - With Eminem to Interim 5800|
Agu 30, 2004 09: 07 EST
The weekend has been alright for the Everest North side team, although the planned ascent turned into a few rest days instead. But today, the crew is off to Interim camp at 5800 m.
"Today everybody went through his and her stuff to sort everything for the Yaktrain on Monday. Most has to come up as we will spend more time in ABC at 6400m than in BC.
The food is great, our Nepali cooks really try their best and it shows! I had some headaches, but nothing a paracetamol couldn't solve. Sander was also not feeling good and had some stomach problems and a headache, Ruby's headache had dissappeared and Mark, Marc and Captain Werner (The Marmot) were feeling fine.
The small speakers I (Harry Kikstra) brought with me to connect to my Ipod did not really give much volume so Marc and I grabbed the toolbox and started tweaking the sherpa's cassette player, connecting a plug to the interior until we could amplify the 25gb of music at full volume. It took a while but we managed and soon Acda & de Munnik, Eminem and Pink Floyd were loud and clear around the entire BC :-"
In the morning the weather was clear again as it had been the past 5 days!
It seems that this actually happens often in August and that an intermediate climbing season might be feasible. Messner proved this already when soloing and this week it would have been perfect as well: Clear skies, no wind at the summit!
A group of Italian trekkers travelling through Tibet were watching our camp and I went to talk to them and explain our objectives.
After breakfast it was time for my private 'Puja'. The rest of the team was already blessed a week before, I still had to get the blessing from the Mother Goddess of the Earth and chase the bad spirits away.
Sherpa Pemba burned some juniper branches and lit a bundle of incense. I placed my climbing gear (ice axes, carabiners, schlings, crampons) against the rocks and tied a string of prayer flags at the top. I also received a silk scarf which had to be tied underneath the others'. Temba spoke different prayers and so I was blessed for the climb and a safe addition to the team.
This Puja will be repeated in ABC, no sherpa will climb Everest without it. Later today I was awoken from a small nap by the sound of bells: the Yak's have arrived! Amazing looking high altitude cows with long hair; unable to live below 3000m, they are the natural porters for Himalayan expeditions.
We signed our special expedition cards today and will try to send some off from the 'post office' at BC, but they seem to be reluctant to do it unless we pay a lot per card... Everybody feels good and is ready to go to IC tomorrow; most even took a 'shower' today!
But Boris, who should be back up today has not yet arrived, so we are quite worried about him. We can not reach him as the hotel he will be staying in has no phone. He must be feeling better now and we had expected him back this afternoon...The Yaks leave tomorrow morning with us towards Interim Camp at 5800m, so if they have to take his stuff up, he will need to be back up tonight."
Werner and his team of 7 are attempting a solitary climb on the Everest North side this autumn season. Expedition members: Werner de Jong (leader), Mark Thijssen, Marc Streefkerk, Boris Krielen, Harry Kikstra, Sander Arens, and Ruby Arens-Halfschepel (Base Camp Manager.)
Image of the climb between Interim BC and Advanced BC transmitted over Contact 2.0 by David Tait this spring.