Everest 2005: Carlos Pauner without O2!|
Nov 30, 2004 09: 58 EST
Carlos Pauner will be attempting Everest without supplementary O2 this spring, through the classic South (Nepal) side route.
Carlos will leave Spain early April, but plans for a late summit push: “After acclimatizing, I hope to be ready for a summit bid by May 20, right on time for the weather window.
Going without oxygen, my main concern is cold so, although I am aware that there can be good conditions before the end of May, I'll rather wait until late in the season, when the temperatures may be slightly warmer.”
Each of us will climb his way
Carlos is repeating the strategy he used last fall on Cho Oyu: “I am climbing with a group of friends, but each of us will face the climb in his own way. I'm the only one who will use no O2 at all, not even for ‘medical use’, and no high altitude Sherpas. Some of the others are definitely using O2, while other team members will bring O2 to use only in case of emergency.”
"We will be sharing the work of setting high camps. I’ll carry my part of the loads, and the rest can do the same or have their Sherpas to do the task. In my opinion, working on the mountain is a great way to acclimatize.”
Going for the sixth
If he makes it, Everest will be the sixth main 8000er for Carlos Pauner, who also summited Broad Peak’s central summit. Sponsored by the local government, Carlos is on a quest to summit all the fourteen 8000ers.
Carlos Pauner wanted to climb the ‘Big E’ already last year, but was prevented by the serious frostbite he suffered after he summited Kanchenjunga two years ago and was lost for two days coming down.
Instead, he climbed Gasherbrum I this summer, and Cho Oyu this fall - a mountain he climbed in a single push from BC to the summit and back. “Cho Oyu was a rather cold peak, and my fingers gave me no trouble, so I am confident that I’ll have no problems with them while climbing Everest.”
Nanga Parbat for summer
Carlos doesn’t want to spend too much time on Everest, as he’s got plans for the next summer as well: He'll join Ivan Vallejo to attempt Nanga Parbat; Raquel Pérez and Willie Barbier, Pauner’s climbing-mates on Gasherbrum, will also be on the team. They have not yet decided the route.
Image of Carlos in tent shortly after his miraculous return from Kanch summit, ExWeb files.